Category Archives: Greek islands

Weekly Photo Challenge: Culture

The Acropolis Museum and the Elgin Marbles:

Elgin might be the villain in the eyes of Greece but what the Acropolis museum  fails to mention is that at the time he removed the sculptures Athenians themselves were using it as a convenient quarry and a great deal of the original sculptures and the basic building blocks of the temple itself, were being reused for new local housing or simply being ground down for mortar.

It is all very well getting irritable about it now but whatever Elgin’s motives were for removing the sculptures there is no doubt at all that he saved them from possible even worse damage and without his intervention we might not be even having the ‘Elgin Marbles’ debate at all.

Read the full story…

 

Weekly Photo Challenge: Lost in the Detail

Yalikavak Bodrum Turkey

Fishing Nets…

The harbour was in a mid afternoon stupor, the metal fish stalls were empty, the fishing nets were repaired and neatly stacked and the men who would go out in the boats later were resting in their boats, some sleeping, some drinking coffee and some just idly chatting with fellow sailors.  I imagine this is a treadmill sort of life where every day follows the same pattern as the one before and the one that will follow.

The next morning we took a stroll along the harbour to watch the last of the fishing fleet return one by one where family were waiting to take the catch, clean and gut, grade and sort and put out on iced beds under the shade of umbrellas for sale whilst keeping vigil and waiting for customers.

Out all night but there was no immediate rest for the fishermen because whilst this was going on there was more work yet to be done untangling, repairing and storing the nets, cleaning the pots and clearing down the decks.

Yalikavak Bodrum Turkey

Weekly Photo Challenge: Forward

Yalikavak Bodrum Turkey Lovers

Looking Forward to a New Life…

After a day spent in the streets of Bodrum we decided today to see some more of Turkey and take a bus to the town of Yalikavak on the northern coast of the Bodrum Peninsular where we came across this statue.

I am not entirely certain that the translation board explaining what it is about has quite managed to capture the spirit of the story…

 “Leaving Çökertme I felt safe and sound, oh my Halil,                                                But before reaching the Bitez shore all hell broke loose at sea                                  My Friend Ibrahim Çavu, washed overboard, now rests with God                      This is not Aspat, oh my Halil, it’s the Bitez shore;                                                          My heart is afire, deep are the wounds of the bullets…”

but the statue tells the local tale of two lovers who tried to escape from feuding families and corrupt officials in Turkey to the Greek island of Kos but were betrayed in an ambush and were shot and died together.  It’s not quite ‘Romeo and Juliet’ but it’s just as sad.

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Weekly Photo Challenge: Beyond

Beyond the Alleyway and the Door 

As Fiskardo is the only place that escaped the damage it is consequently the only village to see examples of the old Venetian architecture.  The buildings around the harbour however had had a very heavy makeover and didn’t feel especially genuine but those in the back streets leading off the harbour were much more authentic.

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Freshly Pressed

gutenbergpress

WordPress seem to go to a lot of trouble to convince users that ‘Freshly Pressed’ is fair, impartial and based on critical selection.

Consider this then from a blog page I chanced upon…

It has been interesting to look back over 2012 to see which posts were the most popular. Bagni di Lucca and Beyond has been Freshly Pressed twice this year, which has been great fun. Thank you WordPress for choosing.

It is a nice blog but it isn’t brilliant (sorry).

I say no more…

Weekly Photo Challenge: Delicate

Naxos Cathedral Tour

Ancient Treasure…

In one room there was a pot-pourri of treasures that really deserved to be in a proper museum where they could be looked after properly.  She dragged them out of boxes and held them in her frail hands and in a rhapsodical way accompanied by extravagant arm gestures as though she were conducting an orchestra kept imploring us to “look at this, look at this!”  At one point she opened an illuminated manuscript and declared it to be five hundred years old but she turned the pages over as though it was a copy of last week’s Radio Times.

Read the full story…

Kos, Kalmnos and Bodrum

2012 has been a year of revisiting previous destinations but this time hopefully as a traveller rather than a holiday maker.  In 1984 I visited the Ionian Island of Corfu and returned there in July this year staying in the village of Kalami where Lawrence Durrell once lived.  In 1983 I made my first visit to Greece and visited the island of Kos in the Dodecanese and in September this year I returned there also.

In my Corfu journals I mentioned that although I hired a car and travelled around the island as far as I can remember I saw everything but didn’t see anything, so as with the return to Corfu I was interested in trying to compare the two visits because if the Cambridge classical scholar Professor M I Finley knew enough about Greece to fill a barrel, what Lawrence Durrell knew about Greece would fill a bucket and if what I know now would fill a teacup then what I knew then would barely cover the bottom of a thimble!  In 1983 I didn’t have the foresight to maintain a journal and the guidebook that I bought has long been lost so all that I have to help me make the comparison are some creaking memories and an album of fading photographs.

Greece and Turkey – The Boat Souvenir

I had some difficulty getting through the body scanner at passport control in Bodrum without setting it off so this left Kim by herself to deal with the request to open my bag that had gone through the scanner and caused some excitement.  I think she suddenly remembered the film ‘Midnight Express’ when a stay in a Turkish prison was decidedly unpleasant and mindful of this she blurted out ‘It isn’t mine!’ and raising a finger and clearly identifying me as the owner said ‘It’s his, it’s his!’  

The security guard was rather perplexed by my bag of driftwood and a few rusty nails but seemed to accept my explanation about the souvenir boat building project and he let us both pass.

The Corfu Souvenir Boat

Weekly Photo Challenge: Renewal

Hotel Laundry – Ios, Greece

 

Kos, Diamond Deluxe and Final days

It was almost immediately obvious that booking into the Diamond Deluxe Hotel was a big mistake.  It was miles out of town in a desolate area of dusty wind-blown grass and littered verges.  I hated it as soon as we checked in.  I preferred the scruffy little Aphrodite Studios that we had just left behind where the owner required no credit card swipe and who let us stay in our room way after check out time.

The Diamond Deluxe is one of those modern ubiquitous hotels that could be anywhere, Cancun, Taiwan, Sydney because there are no concessions to being in Greece at all.  If I had arrived blindfolded I would not have known where in the world I was.  As it is, I seriously doubt of many of the guests knew that they were in Greece, but then again, show them a map of the world and they probably wouldn’t be able to point it out anyway.  They weren’t here to be in Greece they were here to sit basting in the sun, turning their sunbeds and watching their skin progress through various shades of red in between the occasional dip in the pool and the twenty metre walk to the cocktail bar.

I had booked the place at a bargain rate but there was a price to pay for that because the ‘best offer’ rooms also happen to be the worst.  It was well appointed and had all the facilities that a five star hotel room should have but it was designed for Hobbits at below ground level and all that we could see from our sun starved balcony were people’s sunburnt legs walking by and it was expensive with prices tripled at the hotel shop which meant that I had to walk two kilometres to a minimarket to buy some Mythos.  It was a mistake to come here, a very big mistake – for two weeks the sights and sounds had been a delight and an inspiration but there was nothing here to get excited about.

There was a whole day to endure here and I couldn’t bear the thought of staying within the hotel complex so first I walked one way along the scruffy, dirty beach and then I walked the other.  At one point there was a blue flag fluttering but it couldn’t possibly be official given the condition of the water and the heavily littered beach.  Somehow this passed the day away and thankfully soon it was evening and in the morning it would all be over.

For people who like this sort of thing, I am sure it was wonderful, the facilities were good and the food was excellent but quite honestly my advice is don’t go there, go somewhere authentic, go somewhere Greek, go somewhere that supports the Greek people and the Greek economy and not the shareholders of a corporate hotel chain.

On the final day we were ejected from our room at exactly the contracted check out time, there was no flexibility or hospitality here.  We paid the bill in a business like transaction, there were no fond farewells, no philoxenia, no invitations to return and no reciprocal promises.  We were happy to leave and where we arrived in a taxi we left by bus for a return to Kos town for a final drink, last minute shopping, a meal at our favourite taverna and a couple of hours to flush the Diamond Deluxe from the memory.

The airport bus left the town at four o’clock and as we left Kos town I reflected on this year’s Greek travels.  I had enjoyed the places that we had visited and had a good time but it was not the best Greek experience which I personally find comes only with visiting the Cyclades.  I liked Kos but wouldn’t rush back, Turkey was a revelation and a definite must return to country and if I could arrange a trip to Kalymnos whilst bypassing Kos I would like to spend a little more time there and perhaps spend a day or two on tiny Telendros.