Tag Archives: Shakespeare

Weekly Photo Challenge: Love

Romeo and Juliet – Verona

Supposedly the location of the famous balcony scene from Shakespeare’s love story, Juliet’s house is a popular romantic shrine and tourist honey-trap where lovers leave messages to each other on the walls and attach the dreadful lovelocks to the fences and the railings.  

Although the house has become a major destination for tourist pilgrimage the house of course has no connection at all with the bard’s fictional characters and although it is old and looks authentic enough, the balcony was actually added in 1936 and declared to be “Juliet’s house” by the city authorities in a blatant attempt to cash in on the Shakespeare connection and to attract tourists.

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Venice, Verona and Padova

Venive, Verona and Padua

The holiday club all wanted to visit Venice of course so the plans began with an expectation that we would be spending four days in the famous waterlogged city but during the search for suitable accommodation it soon became clear that the price of hotels was some way beyond our normal hotel room budget so I started to look for alternatives and very soon found something suitable in nearby Padova – the Hotel Grand Italia right next to the train station.

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Verona, Juliet’s House and the Piazza Signori

Piazza Brà, the central square with its richly decorated houses, immaculate streets and gardens and busy pavement restaurants had a prosperous, self assured atmosphere and we ate our Brek self-service pasta lunch while people rushed by on the adjacent pavement and the sun broke through the thin clouds and filled the Piazza with welcome rays that emphasized the pastel shades of the buildings and the geometry of the bricks and stones of the medieval city wall close by.

When we were finished we left and continued our exploration of the city and headed away from the piazza and the amphitheatre and into the up-market pedestrianised shopping street of Via Giuseppe Mazzini and towards the busy market place of Piazza dei Signori.  On the way we had to take a small detour because we considered it essential that we find and see Juliet’s house in a cobbled courtyard tucked away in a side street.

Supposedly the location of the famous balcony scene from Shakespeare’s love story, Juliet’s house is a popular romantic shrine and tourist honey-trap where lovers leave messages to each other on the walls and attach the dreadful lovelocks to the fences and the railings.  Although the house has become a major destination for tourist pilgrimage the house of course has no connection at all with the bard’s fictional characters and although it is old and looks authentic enough, the balcony was actually added in 1936 and declared to be “Juliet’s house” by the city authorities in a blatant attempt to cash in on the Shakespeare connection and to attract tourists.

The balcony overlooks a tiny courtyard containing a dainty bronze statue of a graceful Juliet and people were waiting impatiently for their turn to be photographed with the heroine and to touch her right breast which is supposed to bring good fortune but I was worried that public groping was inappropriate and ever so slightly ungentlemanly so I steered clear and elected to do without the good luck boost and on the way out decided not to waste my money on a lottery ticket next weekend.

Juliet’s house was an interesting distraction but now we moved on to something altogether more interesting and stunning, the Piazza die Signori surrounded on all sides by medieval and renaissance palaces and grand buildings rising high and gaily painted, yellow, umber and crimson, with wooden shutters at the windows folded back like butterfly wings and overlooking the busy square and stone statues, the civic heart of medieval Verona and now the most popular and sociable place in the city.  We walked through a street market and admired the magnificent buildings and at this place at this time it was almost possible to believe that what we were seeing would have been very familiar to William Shakespeare if he had in fact visited fair Verona.

From the square we took Via Giuseppe Garibaldi down to the murky waters of the River Adige as it loops its way through the city and followed the river bank for several hundred metres until how way was blocked by the walls of the old fortress and were obliged to return to the streets and completed the trio of roads commemorating the heroes of Italian unification by walking along Corso Cavour to the Ponte Castelvecchio and crossed the river and back again over this restored medieval brick structure.

With the afternoon sliding away we returned to the Piazza Brà along the busy Via Roma and then our footsore way back towards the train station.  I had enjoyed Verona, it was more relaxing than Venice with less tourists and a compact centre and I was sad to watch it slipping away out of sight as the train left the station at the start of the ninety minute journey back to Padova.  I was glad that we had visited the city and was quiet happy to add it to my list of places to which I would gladly return one day.

It was dark by the time we arrived back in Padova and the railway and bus station not being the most salubrious area of the city we purchased some drinks from the station mini-market and arranged to meet in an hour or so to walk into the city.

We walked further tonight and I was glad that we did because we found ourselves in one of the central squares of the city, a market square that was clear of commercial activity now with cafés and bars tucked in below the stone walls, arches, balconies and colonnades of the magnificent old medieval market hall so we selected one that we liked and sat for a while for pre dinner drinks.

Tucked down a side-street Kim had found an authentic looking trattoria so we agreed that we would dine there.  It was a traditional family run sort of place that reminded me of the restaurant where Michael Corleone assassinated the gangster Salazo and the Chief of Police in the Godfather film.  It had rows of tables, simple furniture, white tablecloths and pictures of old Padova on the walls.  The food and the house wine was excellent and we sat and chatted until it was obvious that after a long day and with no new customers the owners would rather like to lock up and go home so we left and wandered slowly back to the hotel.  It had been a good day and tomorrow we would return to Venice.

Verona, The Amphitheatre

“There is no world without Verona walls                                                                           But purgatory, torture, hell itself                                                                                     Hence banished is banish’d from the world                                                                      And world’s exile is death”                                                                                      Shakespeare – Romeo and Juliet

The good thing about travelling to this region of Italy and not staying within the confines of the Venetian Lagoon is that there was the opportunity to go beyond the watery city and see so much more and today our plan was to travel west and visit the ancient and famous city of Verona.

Unfortunately we misinterpreted the train timetable and where we expected to be setting off at about nine-thirty this turned out to be a peak season only service and so we had to wait until eleven o’clock and this meant that we had a hour and a half to spare.  Not wishing to hang about the train station concourse we walked towards the city along a busy ring road and when we had found a quieter back street we slipped into the cobbled streets and headed towards the river.

Coming across a café almost everyone declared it time for coffee, but not being a fan of the bean and too early for Peroni I left them to their mid-morning caffeine fix and walked to the river instead.  Here, built up directly above the banks apartments soared and reflected in the limpid and apparently highly contaminated waters of the Bacchiglione river.  These are the buildings which some claim were the setting for Shakespeare’s ‘Taming of the Shrew’ but they were a bit modern and much later additions to anything Shakespeare might have been aware of  so I don’t think Petruchio or Katherine would have recognised them.  After everyone had satisfied their caffeine craving we move on and returned to the train station to catch the train for the ninety minute journey to Verona.

The Verona railway station is on the south of the city and involves a death defying walk over and around busy roads until we reached the ancient walls and one of the original city gates now sadly marooned on a busy traffic island and standing proudly at the end of an elegant boulevard, the Corso Port Nouva, that leads like an arrow shot straight and true to the heart of the city and we followed this road and arrived in the central Piazza surrounded by cafés and restaurants and with the focal point of the ancient Roman amphitheatre.

The Verona Arena in Italy is the world’s third-largest amphitheater to survive from Roman antiquity. The outer ring of white and pink limestone was almost completely destroyed during a major earthquake in 1117 but the inner part is still amazingly well preserved. It was built in 30 AD and could host thirty thousand spectators. The Roman amphitheater has been used continuously throughout the centuries to host shows and games: gladiator fights during Roman times, jousts and tournaments in the Middle Ages and from the eighteenth century until the present day the arena is the setting for Verona’s spectacular opera performances.

This was our fifth Roman Amphitheatre in only a couple of years after Arles in France, Pula in Croatia, Mérida in Spain and the Coliseum itself in Rome and there is something majestic about them which just fascinates me.  No one can be absolutely sure about which was the largest in terms of capacity and it is generally agreed that this was the Coliseum but we can be more certain about physical size and there was a plaque nearby that claimed that this was the third largest in the Roman Empire.  Interestingly using this criteria the plaque only listed the Coliseum as second largest but it’s like I have always said – size isn’t the most important thing!

Entrance fee paid we went inside and my first impression was one of disappointment, there was an army of labourers dismantling a stage set and tiers of temporary seating and this made it difficult to appreciate the full glory and impact of the structure.  We walked around the corridors and stone steps and made a circuit of the arena but my final assessment was that this amphitheatre was not as good as Arles (my favourite) or the magnificent arena in Pula.

After leaving the amphitheatre we walked for a while around the central square and being close to or just after lunch time we set about selecting a restaurant and decided upon a self-service place called Brek which it turns out is a small chain of eateries in Italy with a budget conscious menu which suited us just fine – it wasn’t a magnificent gourmet experience but we only wanted a beer and a pasta so it worked well for us and we didn’t linger over cognac or coffee because there was an afternoon of foot slogging visitor trail ahead.

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Related posts:

Spartacus the Gladiator

Rome

The Roman City of Pompeii

The Roman City of Herculaneum

The Roman Amphitheatre at Pula

The Aqueduct of Segovia

The Roman Buildings at Mérida

The Roman Ruins at Segóbriga

Diocletian’s Palace at Split

The Roman Buildings at Arles

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In the Footsteps of William Shakespeare?

“Ever a shadow, he disappears, all but utterly, from 1585 to 1592….There is not a more tempting void in literary history, nor more eager hands to fill it”           Bill Bryson on Shakespeare.

It is an interesting fact that thirteen of the thirty-seven plays of William Shakespeare were set either completely or partly in Italy and if we rule out the ten English history plays (which naturally have to be set in England) then half of the remainder of the major works are set in the Italian states and no one knows for sure just why.  Those who question Shakespeare’s authorship make the point that he sets his plays in Venice, Milan and Florence not Warwick, Oxford and York and they just may have a point!

The plays in which some or all of the action is set in Italy are: All’s Well that Ends WellAntony and CleopatraCoriolanusCymbelineJulius CaesarThe Merchant of VeniceMuch Ado About NothingOthelloRomeo and JulietThe Taming of the ShrewTitus AndronicusThe Two Gentlemen of Verona, and The Winter’s Tale.

This curious fact has led to a lot of conjecture and academic debate about whether or not the Warwickshire playwright may actually have spent some time in Italy and whether this explains the Italianate settings.  The most extreme theory, by the Sicilian professor Martino Iuvara (2002), is that Shakespeare was actually a Sicilian born in Messina as Michelangelo Florio Crollalanza but the evidence is desperately flimsy and serious academics dismiss this has completely unlikely.

The obstinate bastions of Shakespeare orthodoxy refuse to consider these alternative theories and they are probably right but let’s not forget however that the Shakespeare Birthplace Trust got the matter of Mary Arden’s house hopelessly wrong and for years showed visitors around the wrong property!

Having got that so catastrophically incorrect  what store can be placed on their explanation that: “Italian literature was so widely read in the society in which Shakespeare lived that it would be surprising if he did not have knowledge of the Italian language”.  The pace of speculation has continued to increase and most recently the Venetian TV historian Francesco da Mosto has waded into the debate with some wild and unproven theories about the travels of the bard.  “Shakespeare,” Francesco claimed, “managed to capture the essence of us Italians — how we speak, how we behave, how we love.”

One reason why there is this speculation and debate is that for seven years from 1585 to 1592 Shakespeare simply disappeared and no historian or biographer can offer a really credible explanation about where he might have been.

So there does therefore remain a possibility that he was in fact on a grand tour of Italy but the truth is that unless some previously undiscovered piece of compelling evidence comes to light then we will just never know and after four hundred years this is becoming less and less likely.  The most probable explanation is in fact that lots of the plays have an Italian setting because Shakespeare adapted a lot of existing stories and used Italian literature as one of his primary sources for plays like ‘Taming of the Shrew’ and ‘Romeo and Juliet’ so when we spent a few days in the Veneto in North Eastern Italy we may or, more likely, may not have been following in William’s footsteps.

The holiday club all wanted to visit Venice of course so the plans began with an expectation that we would be spending four days in the famous waterlogged city but during the search for suitable accommodation it soon became clear that the price of hotels was some way beyond our normal hotel room budget so I started to look for alternatives and very soon found something suitable in nearby Padova – the Hotel Grand Italia right next to the train station.

It was a late flight so we landed in the dark at nine o’clock and the first job was to arrange the transport so I asked at the public transport desk to be told that there were no buses directly to Padova and we would need a bus to the Venetian mainland suburb of Mestre where we could catch a train.  This turned out to be a pack of lies because there was a bus service to Padova at a third of the price but handing out this duff advice was a Ryanair partner bus company so not knowing any better we fell for the trick.  It was my fault really because I had forgotten that Treviso airport is virtually in the middle of town and the direct service SITA bus had a convenient stop just fifty metres away from arrivals.

Apart from the additional cost this didn’t inconvenience us too greatly and soon we were at the train station and buying our tickets but after we found the platform with minutes to spare before the scheduled departure there was then a twenty-five minute delay to the service which meant that we were going to be arriving in Padova too late to be able to find somewhere to eat.

The train journey took about thirty minutes and after we arrived in the city we immediately located our hotel, which was excellent but had no restaurant or bar and the streets outside in contrast to the hotel appeared run down and inhospitable with danger and suspicion lurking in the shadows of every doorway and street corner so we decided against a midnight walk and went straight to our rooms.  Tomorrow we would visit Venice.

Eugene Schieffelin, William Shakespeare and Starlings in the USA

Although the Sparrow and the Starling are on the conservation red list in the United Kingdom it is interesting that by comparison they are doing rather well in the United States.

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Eugene Schieffelin, William Shakespeare and Starlings in the USA

Although the Sparrow and the Starling are on the conservation red list in the United Kingdom it is interesting that by comparison they are doing rather well in the United States.

Read the complete article…