Wednesday began early for me, I was beginning to return to my UK body clock regime and I was up at six o’clock sitting on a chilly balcony with a first cup of tea. Even the sun wasn’t up yet, Kim certainly wasn’t!
It was a crisp, clear morning with a faint orange glow crawling slowly over the hills to the east like a creeping red wine stain on a tablecloth and I sat outside and watched the sunrise just because I could and I knew that there wouldn’t be many more opportunities this year.
Suddenly the sunrise became rapid and considering how long it took to clear the mountains within an hour the sun was surprisingly high in the sky and was a reassuring ball of yellow flame. It was becoming warmer by the minute, I stopped shivering and had a third cup of tea.
The days were slipping away in the way that final moments of a holiday seem to accelerate at a disproportionate speed to the start but we weren’t in the mood to do anything dramatic because we were staying in an excellent apartment, there was a shop around the corner that sold cold beer and splendid beaches nearby.
The day after the dog walk we decided to go back to Paradise Beach and have a swim and a pancake lunch at the beachside bar/shack. We had already declared them to be the best food we had eaten in Turkey all fortnight so were happy to go back. This didn’t take an awful lot of planning so I had a fourth cup of tea and waited for sleepy Kim to make an appearance.
About mid-morning we left the apartment and before going to the beach we did the Yesilkent walk again, strolled along the road, stopped for a drink at a favourite bar and then walked back along the coastal path to Paradise Beach.
The brief period of indifferent weather had passed now, the winds had dropped, the temperatures had risen again and the beach and the sea was back to its very best. There were only a couple of other families on the sand so there was plenty of room to spread out so we left our things and went for a long refreshing swim.
After half an hour or so we dried ourselves off and made our way to the shoreline furniture which belonged to the shack. I really liked it there, the furniture was old and storm battered, faded, creaking and as dusty as an undisturbed library, it was shabby and worn and Kim said that it suited my style down to the ground. I think this was meant to be a compliment?
We sat for a while and waited for service but something didn’t seem quite right today. The owner seemed to be sulking and his wife had a bit of a face on. Eventually he came across and took the order and took it back to his wife. I don’t think she wanted to do the cooking today and snatched the order from his hand and passed it on to her daughter who set about it straight away.
We had stumbled across a domestic! At first we could hear them shouting at each other in whispers in the way people do in the hope of not attracting attention to themselves but as the minutes passed the volume was raised and they completely abandoned any attempt to keep the dispute in any way private. Soon they were yelling at each other, arms were waving and there was the dramatic posturing and gesturing that accompanies an argument such as this. We felt rather embarrassed but we had ordered now so we turned our chairs to face the sea and tried to ignore them.
I confess that I found this impossible so gradually turned my chair around again and watched the dispute play out. Finally he had had enough of the ear bashing that he was taking and tried to make a get away. He got into his car and started to reverse away. She heard the engine and chased after him wielding an empty beer bottle and threatened to smash it over the windscreen. He obviously thought better of his plan to escape and as he got out of the driver’s seat she threatened to smash it over his head if he tried it again. I was convinced that we were only seconds away from physical violence.
But then it seemed to suddenly calm down, she went off to sit in a shady corner, he went to the shoreline to rake up some sea weed and the daughter finished cooking our food and brought it to our table. It was delicious again and as we finished a second bottle of beer we agreed that we would come back here in a couple of day’s time for our final meal and perhaps some more entertainment.