Scotland – Edinburgh Castle and Scotland The Brave

Edinburgh Statue

July 2015 broke all weather records by being the wettest UK July on record with Scotland being the wettest place of all, so it was a surprise when we woke in the morning and were greeted by clear blue skies and a blazing sun.

This was too good to miss so we hurried back to Calton Hill to get some blue sky pictures of Edinburgh and to see the monuments early before coach loads of visitors started swarming all over them.  The walk gave us an appetite and back at the Waverley we tucked into a full Scottish breakfast including haggis.  I ate it but I made a mental note to myself not to repeat the mistake of putting it on my plate the following day.

After breakfast we went our separate ways, Kim was drawn to the department stores of Princess Street and I returned to the castle stopping now and then in the tourist gift shops to see if I could find that illusive tartan polo shirt, alas without any luck!

Scotland Edinburgh Dugold Castle

Even at ten o’clock there was a long queue at the ticket office, sensible people buy their tickets on line and get through quicker but I had failed in this instance to think ahead so I waited in line and shuffled slowly to the ticket office like a man with his shoe laces tied together.  I was cheered up however when I got there and noticed that I qualified for a 20% over 60s concession – there are some benefits to getting older.

I am sure that I have been to the castle before, I visited Edinburgh in 1972 and 1984 but I couldn’t remember it at all.  This is another benefit of getting older, you forget things so even if you do them again they are like a whole new experience.

This is another benefit of getting older, you forget things so even if you do them again they are like a whole new experience.

Inside the castle I took a quick look at the battlements and the splendid views over Edinburgh but they were swarming with people so I moved on and went to the Scottish National War Museum.

Edinburgh Castle

The Scots like military history and the museum sets out the story of the last four hundred years of wars and battles.  It conveniently starts after the wars of Scottish independence and a succession of English victories but at least that spares the English visitor from the tedious stories of Bannockburn and William Wallace!

It was a good museum and I enjoyed it but what I wanted to see most of all was the museum of the regiment The Royal Scots Dragoon Guards – The Greys.  Being a fan of the Richard Sharp novels and the TV series there was one exhibit that I really wanted to see, the Imperial Eagle of the French 45th Regiment of the Line captured at the Battle of Waterloo by Sergeant Charles Ewart.

I made my way through the museum stopping regularly to look at the show cases of swords and guns and uniforms (a lot of kilts) and followed the time line to 1815.  I wanted to see the painting of the famous cavalry charge Scotland Forever (see header) which I just assumed would be here but found out that the original is actually in an art gallery in Leeds in England so I had to make do with a reproduction.


I was getting closer now to Sergeant Charles Ewart’s Imperial Eagle and then I came upon the display case I was looking for.  I was in for a shock.  It was empty but for a scruffy hand written note saying that it had been loaned to the Scotland National Museum elsewhere in the City to commemorate the two hundredth anniversary of the Battle of Waterloo.  What a disappointment, I so wanted to see that Eagle and there wasn’t going to be time now to go to its temporary place of display.

So I visited a couple more regimental museums and then the dungeons and prisons of the old castle before making my way to the very top past Mons Meg, which with a twenty inch calibre is one of the biggest cannons ever made and then past a long line of people shuffling slowly forward to visit a dog cemetery.  A dog cemetery!  What the…? There are so many interesting things to see in the castle but hundreds of visitors queue up for the bizarre reason of seeing where army officers’ pet dogs are buried.  How bizarre!

Scotlan Highland Soldiers The Thin Red Line

At the top I joined another long line of people waiting in turn to see the Honours of Scotland, The Scottish Crown Jewels, the crown, the sceptre and the sword of state together with the stone of Scone, the Coronation Stone.  It took longer than I expected to make my way through a four hundred time line of history which charted every significant event in the history of the honours which seemed to dwell rather a lot on the repeated attempts of the English to steal them and as a consequence spending hundreds of years hidden under floor boards and locked up in a secret casket.

Eventually the journey through time came to an end and I was in the strong room which houses the valuable artefacts, so valuable it seems that photography is strictly forbidden and there are far more people on duty than really necessary to make sure no one sneaks a picture – even more than at Lenin’s tomb in Moscow.  Perhaps they worry about a modern day Colonel Blood who stole the Crown Jewels of Scotland and England from the Tower of London in 1671.

It was time to leave the castle now so I walked through the Esplanade being prepared for the 2015 Tattoo back along the Royal Mile and getting familiar with the city now a couple of short cuts through unpromising narrow alleys, past Waverley station and back to the hotel where Kim was waiting for me.

I think it is important not to have regrets in life but I do often wonder what possessed me to spend nearly £2,000 collecting model lead soldiers.  I cannot even explain it away as a moment of madness because it took nearly four years to build a collection of two hundred Napoleonic cavalry and infantry soldiers which are now stored in a box and destined to remain there forever.

One of the figures in the collection is Sergeant Charles Ewart  of the Royal Scots Greys…

Sergeant Charles Ewart

More Scottish soldiers from the collection…

Scottish Soldiers

Glasgow Highlanders, Gordon Highlanders and Black Watch.

All reasonable offers considered…

19 responses to “Scotland – Edinburgh Castle and Scotland The Brave

  1. Well now, Andrew, regarding the soldier collection: Antique Roadshow takes all sorts of lovely and interesting things even from 20th Century 😀

    I must say I love Scotland!


  2. When we went to Scotland last year, Jo had encouraged me to try haggis but I think like you once is enough! Glad to hear you had some clear skies while there and of course brilliant to get up early and beat the crowds. That way you don’t need the technique of screaming “Fire” fo those great people-less shots. 🙂


  3. Loved this post! I have had the same experience finding that something you have been planning to see is not there. Such great anecdotes. I bet if you set up your soldiers and posted a photo it would go viral. ☺


  4. At first glance, I thought that was a bird (a partridge or peacock) perched on the head in the first shot! 😉


  5. There seems to be some kind of synchronistic rule, law? When I feel like I’m going to see or eat something, and it never enters my mind, after having done it before, that’s when they are closed , they don’t have the dish, or they have loaned the work.


  6. Pingback: Flat neighbouring Edinburgh Castle on the market | Luke Fraser

  7. Pingback: On This Day – Edinburgh Castle and Lead Soldiers | Have Bag, Will Travel

  8. Did you get to the National Museum to see your eagle? It’s a wonderful place, among the best museums I’ve visited, with varied collections thoughtfully displayed and interpreted. I seem to remember it was free too …


  9. I built up two stamp collections in my youth and gave each one away when I got tired of it. I kind of regret it now – but we only ever have anything on loan.


  10. My late husband began a collection of model classic cars when our son was little but he would never let him play with them. Now my son has them all for himself on display in a cabinet.

    I forget things all the time, but unlike you my repeated lines are accidental.
    Nice touch!


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