” Castile has no coast, so tourists in search of a beach leave it alone…. Castile is almost overlooked. If Spain is hard, extreme, hot, cold, empty, then Castile is more so.” – Christopher House – ‘A Pilgrim in Spain’
It was still hot and the long straight road just kept going and going with nothing to break the monotony of the empty plains and the expanse of dusty red soil and the occasional vineyard. As we drove I started to get a sense of just how big Spain is; four times larger than England and not as many people living in it either.
At some point in the afternoon we crossed the Guadiana River for a second time today and then drove through the towns of Valdepeñas, Manzanares and Tembleque and then the sun started to go down and it began to get dark.
We were very hungry now and we needed fuel so we stopped at a truck stop and filling station and went inside. The truckers, who were watching the ‘Muppet Show’ on TV, in Spanish, seemed surprised to see us and when there was a power cut and everything went pitch black we feared the worst might happen especially as Tembleque has one of the largest civil prisons in Spain.
When the power was restored a few minutes later and Kermit reappeared we nodded our appreciation to them for not murdering and robbing us and we set off again in the direction of Madrid.
Finally we reached the capital where once again there was no ring road and we were sucked into the city centre at the peak of Friday rush hour. This was a terrible experience, driving down a main city street with no road markings, no logic to the traffic light sequencing and pedestrians fearlessly crossing the road and dodging the cars.
We stopped to ask directions but that wasn’t very helpful and at one point with Richard driving and on the wrong road we told him to reverse and correct his position. We calculated that this was a safe thing to do because the traffic behind was held back by a red light but in the middle of the manoeuvre the lights changed and we didn’t want to be there because it was a bit like being caught in the middle of the road at the start of the Spanish Grand Prix!
Richard fearlessly completed the direction correction and slowly we began to crawl north out of the city. It was about seven o’clock and we were six hours behind schedule, we should have been at the French border but we had only completed about five hundred miles.
As we finally left Madrid behind us we started to climb into the mountains and the temperature started to fall. It started to fall a lot! We had forgotten about the bodged repair to the heater because up until now we hadn’t needed it but now it was getting cold and it would have been rather nice. And it got darker and darker and the missing headlight was becoming a problem and other irritated motorists were constantly flashing us.
While I took my turn at the wheel the other three put on extra clothing and went to sleep and I continued in silence and then it started to snow. I didn’t know that it snowed in Spain! Driving was becoming ever more difficult now and it wasn’t made easier when at one point Richard woke with a start and began to grab the wheel because in his disorientation he thought that I had strayed onto the wrong carriageway and I had to fight him off and settle him down before carrying on.
By ten o’clock we had been on road for seventeen hours and I was tired, hungry and had just plain had enough! We had passed into Castilla y León and were high in the mountains approaching the town of Aranda del Duoro when suddenly some welcoming lights appeared and I decided that if this was somewhere to stop and sleep I was stopping and sleeping.
It was a classy looking hotel called the Tudanca-Aranda II that from the temporary warmth of the back seat Anthony and Tony declared too expensive but I didn’t care and went to enquire about availability. It turned out that this was a Spanish state hotel, which were luxury hotels in old castles, palaces, convents, monasteries and other historic buildings and are now part of the exclusive Parador group.
The hotels were set up by the state to promote quality tourism to act as guardian of the national and artistic heritage of Spain and to assist poorer regions to attract more visitors.
This one was an old hacienda and I don’t think they were expecting too many visitors on this particular night. As it was a state hotel it was also ridiculously cheap so I booked a room for Richard and I and went back to the car where the others were getting ready for an uncomfortable night in the vehicle but were delighted when I broke the price news and they quickly joined us at check in.
Our final problem for this day was that we didn’t have many pesetas so we had to make a decision; food or beer? While we had a first San Miguel the barman provided us with plates of little tapas snacks and as they just seemed to keep coming we kept eating them and this seemed to be the perfect solution. Free food meant all of our money was available for wasting on beer! On reflection I am certain that we were just the sort of clientele that they did not want!
We didn’t stop up long though because we were exhausted and I can still remember, without exaggeration, the pleasure of getting undressed and climbing into the most comfortable bed that I have ever slept in, in my life.
Have you ever been really happy to find somewhere to stop and sleep?
Thank you so much for sharing this travelogue 🙂
Beautiful images and nice write up 🙂
and thank you for stopping by!
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It’s funny how you can remember perhaps one comfortable bed in your whole life. Mine was in Berlin in very similar circumstances to your own.
Oh, that bed was just wonderful, unfortunately I didn’t get a lie in because we had another early start the next day!
I feel your pain and that bed. I need a nap now after driving with you for 17 hours. 😀 😀 😀
We have to start again next morning so get ready for an early start!
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Guess I’ll need that nap more than ever. Ha ha.
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Great story, great images!
As you know, Andrew, I have a soft spot for marathon adventures and you are obviously having one. Good decision on the beer and food. What other decision could you have made? 🙂 –Curt
I have always said that beer is a good food substitute!
When there’s a choice to be made, grin. Sounded like you scored on the food as well, however. –Curt
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Yes, my husband and I had a horrendous journey in Spain once when we left, I think, Malaga for … I can’t remember where, but we somehow took a wrong turning and ended up in a barren coal-slaggish region of unending black fields and rutted roads. Not only was there no sign of habitation but we never saw a car, a lorry or even a donkey in 6 plus hours. Finally, we breasted a hill and there below us was the sea and a village called Aguilas. We found a hotel on the seafront with a small balcony, ordered a bottle of wine and sat on the balcony recovering our sense of joy at finding somewhere to sleep for the night. I don’t think they’d ever had foreign tourists there before as we were the subject of much amusement during dinner later on which, in those days, was ALWAYS tomato soup, chicken and chips, and creme caramel.
And we were once snowed up for two days between Madrid and Zaragoza and had to hope that a van with snow tyres for an Austin would come from the other side before we could get away. Vert few Austin vans in the sixties in Spain, hence the two days waiting in a hut with the Civil Guards.
Oh, happy days!!!
Sounds like quite a journey. But what memories. There are a couple of blog posts there for sure!
Just one bottle of wine? I’d have ordered one each!
I remember Benidorm in 1977 where dining options were severely limited. I read somewhere that at that time the Spanish Tourist Board (or whatever t was then) advised hotels not to cook with herbs or garlic because tourists from the north wouldn’t like it!
Quite the marathon drive! I could almost feel the relief of those cool sheets myself – great story.
I have never slept in a better bed! Thanks for the comment.
Yikes that sounds like an awful drive. Snow in Spain? Good grief. I certainly have had that feeling of falling out of a vehicle after an extended road trip and collapsing on a bed as if I had found an oasis in the desert. Nothing quite like the relief of it all.