Road Trip – Dieppe to Newhaven in a Force 7 Gale

To make matters worse it was cold and our clothing was totally inadequate.  The crew were all wearing clothes suitable for Arctic conditions but we were still in Mediterranean attire.  The only sensible thing to do was to go inside where it was warm, but once inside I just began to feel sick so had to go outside again almost immediately.

Not long into the journey it started to get dark and that made it even colder so as I couldn’t go back inside without being ill I found a lounger in a reasonably sheltered spot and tried to go to sleep. And I was very successful and when I woke I was delighted to discover that we had been at sea for three and a half hours so must be nearly home.  The boat was listing at about 30° so walking was really difficult but I got to the front of the ferry and looked for the welcoming lights of England.

To my horror there were none and when I enquired a fellow suffering passenger told me that because of the conditions the crossing was now estimated to take eight hours!

Duty Free Storm

I was cold and stiff but at least I didn’t feel sick so I went inside and found Richard who like me had remained feeling well by sitting outside.  We went downstairs and it was like a scene from the gun deck of HMS Victory at the battle of Trafalgar.  There were no staff on duty anywhere because they were all too ill to work and in duty free bottles of spirits clattered together on the shelves and rolled about on the floor.  It was just there for the taking but the last thing we felt like was alcohol so we moved on to the dining room where we found Tony completely unaffected by all of this mayhem and quietly enjoying a meat pie.

Well, that was it for me and as my insides turned over several times I had to find my way back outside fast.  People were lying all around, some had collapsed in the corridors and everywhere there were crew members with mops and buckets washing down the vomit.  I made it to the outside but only just before I emptied the contents of my heaving stomach over the side but a gust of wind caught most of it and blew it back only narrowly missing a group of passengers all clinging on to the railings and like me wishing for the voyage to end.

I tried to sleep some more, but it was impossible so I just sat with Richard and felt thoroughly miserable.  Tony came by several times to see if we were feeling any better but was unable to locate Anthony to check on his condition and none of us had any idea where he might be.

Eventually the south coast of England came into view but it seemed to take an eternity to get close and finally to dock in Newhaven.  We were reunited with Anthony, who it turned out had spent all eight hours of the crossing in the lavatory in his own private cubicle and we made our way to the garage deck and back to the car.

The doors of the ferry opened and being at the front we were first off and the remarkable thing was that as soon as were on solid ground and the earth was no longer moving in conflicting directions we all felt instantly better.  I was amazed that I could recover so quickly and looked forward to the last leg of the journey home.  But our problems weren’t over yet and no sooner were we off the boat than we pulled over by Her Majesty’s customs officials.

They didn’t seem pleased to see us and probably wondered just what we were doing driving this knackered old UK registered, left hand drive car back from the Continent.  Their mood didn’t improve much when they enquired where we had come from and after Richard told them Portugal I added the rather superfluous detail that we had driven back through Spain and France.  They interpreted this weary response as taking the piss and asked all sorts of dumb questions about alcohol, cigarettes and smuggling in general and then told us that if he wasn’t satisfied with our responses that he could impound the vehicle.

Anthony was delighted with this piece of information and got out of the car, handed them the keys and invited them to take it away.  Between us we calculated that it was only worth about £50 anyway, which was way less than the motoring offence fine in Spain,  so between us we could easily compensate Gordon for his loss.

Eventually I think it must have dawned on them that we had just got off the ferry from hell and they grudgingly let us pass.  But it made us think? Just why did Gordon want this old wreck back anyway?  Were we four dumb mules and  were the door panels packed with illegal substances we wondered?

We didn’t really care that much we were just glad to be back in England but not looking forward especially to the three hour journey back to Nottingham.  We dropped the car off in Rugby and replaced it with something a bit more modern and with the luxury of a fully functioning heater completed the remainder of the journey and in the early hours of Monday morning were just so very glad to be back home and in a comfortable bed.

It had been a very interesting week, we discovered just how tight with money Tony was, how far Anthony would stretch the truth to impress supermarket check-out girls from Leeds and how much Richard and I liked going away on holiday together.

The following year the two of us went back to the villa but thankfully this didn’t involve driving a car all the way back home.  The channel crossing put me off ferries for several years and I didn’t take another crossing until nearly twenty years later, when I finally got over it in 2004 and went to France again using the Dover to Calais crossing, which wasn’t nearly so bad!

Have you ever had a rough sea crossing on a ferry?

28 responses to “Road Trip – Dieppe to Newhaven in a Force 7 Gale

  1. Sea-sickness isn’t for sissies!

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  2. What a ghastly journey! I can remember a few, but was never ill myself…..one of the worst was a crossing from Kos to another Greek Island in a tiny ancient ferry , and my partner and I played ‘Trivial Pursuits’ (we didn’t have the game with us, asked questions from memory) to take our mind of the heaving seas …it worked

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  3. Yes, 1975, returning from Switzerland, lounger in sheltered spot, feet up, nice warm parka with hood pulled round head works for me. Slept like a rocking baby. The difference is that when I woke up it was dawn with England in sight.

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  4. Years ago, they used to take the Scillonian ferry out into the Atlantic some 120 miles beyond the Scillies in an effort to see rare birds. This was done one Sunday per year, when the ship wasn’t used as a ferry. I went at least three, possibly four times, one of which was a Force 8 gale with bright blue skies and brilliant sunshine. The back of the ship was going up and down about 20-30 feet with the swell. It was fantastic…the raw power of nature. Not many atheists out there!

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  5. The scenes with mops, buckets, vomit, ropes to hold on to, people everywhere … remind me of crossing the Indian Ocean way back in August 1962 towards Australia – the waves almost gulped up the old ship called Sydney …about 15 days of such horrible experience was enough to last ten life times…so not on a ferry but the ship was like today’s ferry – small and vulnerable to the ocean waves 🙂 The dining halls were practically empty and can remember the buckets in our cabin sliding along floor down to our bunkers with the wave and then sliding back to the sink area as wave passed and then all over again – at least one handy thing 🙂

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    • Ferries are much better to day of course. A couple of years ago I went across the North Sea from Hull to Rotterdam, weather conditions were fairly stormy but inside the ship we hardly noticed a thing!

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      • If it were me there I’d have swallowed some Kwells or Travacalms before going on the Indian Ocean experience way back really instiulled fear of seasickness in me even if the sea is as smooth as oil surface

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  6. I vaguely remember ferry trips across the Chesapeake Bay back in the 50s until they were replaced by the bridge-tunnel across the bay. http://www.cbbt.com/about-us/ I don’t remember ever suffering from sea sickness then, or during later trips. I was only five when we did the Atlantic crossing and the only memory I have is getting the measles and being quarantined in the infirmary.

    Since then, I’ve taken a ferry from Nova Scotia to Bar Harbor, Maine. That was a great deal of fun with a group pulling out a violin, entertaining themselves and the other passengers.

    Next, we’re planning a trip on the inland ferry – up the Puget Sound, perhaps going all the way to Alaska.

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  7. I’m with you Andrew one has to be outside. We had a ferry ride between islands in the Galapagos where I we clung to the top deck by our fingernails. I decided it would be far better to be thrown into the ocean than endure the inside of the cabin. The trip was likely three hours. Eight would have been unbelievable! (Feel free to delete the link) http://traveltalesoflife.com/2015/06/29/how-to-prevent-sea-sickness-galapago/

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  8. Glad you made it back safe and sound! I can certainly relate to wild channel crossings – Weymouth to Cherbourg many years ago springs to mind! I get very sea sick at the best of times – I remember being out on deck most of the journey on that occasion too!

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  9. Pingback: A Look Back – A Channel Ferry Crossing, 1066 and a Coincidence or two. | Have Bag, Will Travel

  10. Don’t you believe it, that Dover-Calais is a better bet. We once did a crossing that took six long hours. The crockery (Malcolm told me, I was too ill to care) was being hurled to the floor in the restaurant. We had to stop mid-voyage because the lorries were all shifting about down below, and then again outside Boulogne (not Calais in this case) because the captain didn’t dare navigate into the port. Uuurgh.

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  11. It wasn’t a ferry, but it was a tourist trip to Fingal’s Cave when ours was the only boat prepared to go out. You may know that I am scared of heights – but not of water. I surprised myself and everybody else – most of whom were puking up down below – by hanging over the side with my left hand holding on to something and taking one-handed pictures – some of my best of seabirds. And I wasn’t seasick. Needless to say that was about 40 years ago.

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  12. I’m glad the Senlac found a nice warm home to go to…I remember her from the Newhaven – Dieppe crossing all those years ago.

    Thanks to a doctor refusing to ‘waste’ penicillin on an ear infection when I was a kid I have no problems with seasickness, which is just as well with some of the hairier Channel crossings endured.

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