A Competition, Compostela, Cahors and a Chateau

In the early summer of 1998 the Times Newspaper ran a daily competition one week to win a prize of an all expenses paid trip for two nights in an up market Relais and Chateau Hotel somewhere in Europe.  One day the competition required answers to three questions about Santiago de Compostela in Galicia and the Way of St James.  I was confident of the answers and telephoned them in several times over the course of the day.

Over the following couple of weeks I forgot all about the competition but one day was surprised to receive a letter from the Times telling me that I was the winner and that the prize was first class air travel to Toulouse in South West France, car hire and two nights all-inclusive at the Château de Mercuès just outside the provincial town of Cahors.

Chateau de Mercures Cahors

Early in the Autumn we flew with British Airways in a first class cabin that we shared with the actor Robin Ellis (Ross Poldark) and his wife (his real wife not Demelza)and enjoyed a silver service meal and complimentary champagne.  When we arrived at Toulouse in the early afternoon we picked up the Renault hire car and set off in a northerly direction on our way to the Chateau.

On the way we stopped at the town of Cahors and after we had walked around the centre, sitting within a protective loop of the River Lot, we found a traditional patisserie and sat and gloated about our unusual good fortune.

The village of Mercuès was just a few kilometres west of the town and eventually we set off again following the course of the river as it swept through the countryside and soon in front of us we saw a splendid castle with soaring towers and blue slate conical roofs and we imagined that it looked somewhere interesting to visit.

After only a short distance there was a sign to our hotel and we took a narrow road that climbed high away from the river and after one final turn we were confronted with the entrance to the very same magnificent building.  This was the Château de Mercuès and way beyond the standard of any hotel that we had ever stayed in before.

The car had hardly come to a halt before a porter rushed through the front doors and took our luggage from the car and indicated that we should follow him to the reception.  Inside there were wonderful furnishings and treasured artefacts and I worried that we were in the wrong place.  But no, it was true, this was prize for winning the competition.

After registration we were shown to our room at the very top of the tallest tower with stone walls, wooden beams and an external walkway on the outside with long distance views over the Lot valley, the Chateau gardens and the raging River Lot rushing by below swollen by days of heavy rain and carrying fallen trees and other debris hurriedly downstream.

Chateau de MERCURES

Our room at the top of the tower with personal balcony!

It took a while for all this to sink in but fortunately there was a complimentary bottle of Cahors wine to help us and when we had settled down we took some time to explore the castle and its gardens, its wine cellars and it public rooms.  Dinner off of an expensive menu was included and I remember that this was the first time that I ever tasted Foie Gras and feeling guilty about it because I was certain that my vegetarian teenage daughter would certainly not approve.

For our full day in France after breakfast we chose to drive the thirty-five kilometres north to the tourist town and Christian pilgrimage centre of Rocamadour.

At first the road was straight and driving was easy but the final few kilometres were on twisting bendy roads that swooped through gullies and over ravines as we got closer.  Rocamadour is one of the busiest tourist sites in France because the picturesque town is built almost vertically into the side of the mountain with its golden houses overhanging a rocky gorge and the River Alzou below.  The car park was at the bottom of the mountain and to get to the entrance gate of the town required an ascent up several flights of wooden steps that eventually brought us out at the main tourist street.

It was quiet today because this was October and outside the main tourist season but the summer months bring thousands of visitors to this place daily.  Years later I visited Carcassonne and Mont St Michel and found them rather similar in a touristy sort of way.

It didn’t help matters that the weather was rather poor and although it wasn’t raining it was misty and rather damp and the honey coloured stones looked disappointingly dull and lifeless today, the place was full of tourist shops that weren’t doing enough business to justify being open and we had the streets and medieval staircases almost to ourselves as we wandered past churches and chapels on ancient streets punctuated with shops and restaurants every few metres.  We stopped for lunch and then made our way back down the steps and drove back to the Chateau where we enjoyed a second gourmet meal in the expensive dining room.


The next morning when it was time to check out I suddenly began to panic in case I had to pay for any of this unaccustomed extravagance and finery that we had enjoyed and the thoughts got stronger as I waited behind an American guest who settled his obscenely large bill and then made a dreadful fuss about being charged a couple of Francs for a postcard that he picked up while waiting.

My hands were sweating and I avoided the postcards but I needn’t have worried of course, the whole bill was taken care of by the Sunday Times and with the sun shining now we had one final walk around the delightful gardens before setting off for the return journey to Toulouse airport.

31 responses to “A Competition, Compostela, Cahors and a Chateau

  1. Oh my Goodness me. If I had experienced that I would have gone home and remained satisfied for the rest of my life. The holiday to end all holidays! But then again, maybe it would have just been the start of a life of touring. Great stort Andrew.


  2. If you’re just an ordinary person, the lives of the rich can come as quite a surprise. And how they love money.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. Wowee! You jammy devils!


  4. That is fantastic! I would totally be like you worried and sweating that I might in the end be charged for the whole thing.


  5. How the other half live, Andrew! One day I’ll win a competition. 🙂 🙂


  6. What a wonderful surprise and a lovely competition to have won. I can’t beat any of that, although I did once win £1,000 on an online hamster race. It helped pay for our house removals a few months later, though I did take everyone in the office out for a drink on some of the winnings.


  7. What a fabulous prize!! thanks for sharing this experience with us.


  8. Pingback: A to Z of Windows – R is for Rocamadour in France | Have Bag, Will Travel

  9. How wonderful! Persistence pays dividends. I bet this earned you serious brownie points with Kim. I’ve never visited Rocamadour but I have been to Carcassonne and Mont Saint Michel. IMHO the latter two are best viewed from a distance and I’m going to assume that the same is true of the former.


  10. We had a honeymoon for two days in a Worcestershire hotel that was five golden stars and like nothing we had ever seen before. It was a special offer from the AA.
    I’m sure ordinary people just do not realise how the ruling classes live their lives.


  11. Oh wonderful. It’s a lovely part of the world, and what a treat, that hotel! Though I’d probably have worried that I looked too scruffy to pass muster.


  12. Congratulations on the perfect win for you


  13. Wonderful, what a perfect prize for someone who loves travelling. I’ve never been to Rocamadour but your post has set me thinking. And I always go out of season to these places. Tourism keeps it possible for us to visit them so we have to live with it. I won a holiday prize sometime in the 90’s for a holiday for 4 in Italy – it was near perfect and wonderful to be able to treat a couple of good friends who were cash strapped that year. But more recently, last December, I won a hamper of Sicilian goodies from that lovely island and I’m currently trying to get FedEx off my back as they are demanding £80 Customs & Duty from me (another Brexit fallout). I won’t have to pay, the senders are taking care of it, but do you think FedEx will listen?


  14. Ha, I’ve only won an (ice-cream) t-shirt in a competition a very long time ago … but your prize, wow! Flying first class AND that hotel – now that is a proper prize!


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