Almost as soon as we returned to the car and drove away from Knock it started to rain and by the time we reached the city of Galway we were very glad of underground parking facilities at the hotel so that we didn’t get soaked through getting to reception.
This wet weather came as something as a surprise. We travelled to Ireland in 2014 and went to the west coast, a year later we went to Northern Ireland and stayed in Belfast and in 2016 visited Cork and the South Coast. Despite Ireland’s reputation for dreary weather and lots of rain we enjoyed sunshine and blue skies on all three occasions.
So good was the weather in fact that Kim thinks it is permanently sunny in the Emerald Isle so she was especially dismayed to see the grey skies and persistent rain.
So persistent as it happened that we were unable and unwilling to step out of the hotel and walk into the city centre for evening meal and made do with the hotel restaurant instead.
Overnight there was no improvement and in the morning a peek through the curtains revealed a dismal view of steel grey sky and bands of drenching rain swooping in from the Atlantic Ocean. Kim ventured outside for an early morning stroll but was very soon forced back inside to the shelter of the hotel.
Our first day plans were in tatters. It had been our intention to spend the morning in Galway, a city that we had really liked on our first visit in 2014 but the rain was so bad there seemed little point taking to the streets that we had enjoyed in brilliant sunshine at that time. A good job that we had been there before then because if this was my only visit it wouldn’t be on my going back to list that’s for sure.
Several countries claim to be wettest in Europe including Switzerland, Norway and Scotland but I have visited Ljubljana in Slovenia which has the dubious distinction of being the wettest capital city in Europe and at fifty three inches that would certainly take some beating. Before I knew this I would probably have guessed that it would be Cardiff, in Wales, because that is fairly damp as well but the Welsh capital city is left way behind at only forty inches or so.
We were going to drive along the coast but with the road shrouded in mist we abandoned that plan as well and took a more direct route alongside Loch Corrib towards our far west destination via Joyce Country and the Connemara National Park. After an hour or so the rain eased off to a light drizzle so encouraged by that we eventually made for the coast and the fishing village of Roundstone.
I like this picture. There is a saying “Only in Ireland” and I suggest that only in Ireland would you find gas bottles stored next to the petrol pump…
At Roundstone there was minor improvement as we drove in and parked the car and by some small miracle, which I attributed to having visited the Holy Shrine at Knock, it had stopped raining and were able to take a walk around the harbour and the streets without a rain coat or an umbrella.
It didn’t last long however and soon it started to rain once more. Our outline plan for this holiday was to roughly follow the west coast route along the Wild Atlantic Way through Counties Galway, Mayo and Sligo and for a few miles we followed a lonely coast road that weaved its way through a landscape of giant boulders and heathland which struggled to look at all interesting in the sweeping rain. We were heading now for our two night stay in the holiday town of Westport.
In Connamara National Park we looked for The Twelve Pins a mountain range of apprimately two thousand feet high which should have been easy to spot but the cloud was so low and the rain so steady that it was impossible to find them so we just drove on through the damp town of Clifden until we arrived at a windswept car park that a place that commemorated two important events.
First this was the site of a previous transmitting station where Marconi sent transatlantic radio messages to Glace Bay in Newfoundland. Grainy photographs reveal the huge scale of the building, with the large condenser house building, the power house with its six boilers and the massive aerial system consisting of eight wooden masts, each over two hundred feet high. It is long since gone of course there is nothing very much to see even on a good day.
Secondly this is the landing site of the first non-stop transatlantic flight piloted by British pioneer aviators Alcock and Brown who landed at this place in June 1919 although looking carefully at the photograph below that looks more like a crash to me rather than a landing and judging by the heavy overcoats it was probably as cold on that occasion as it was today and we stood and shivered in the rain for only a few moments before returning to the car and making our way to Westport.
We spent a damp evening in Westport but the owner of the B&B assured us of good weather for the following two days so were optimistic about that and the other good thing is that it doesn’t rain in pubs and we finished the evening in a bar where local musicians entertained with traditional Irish music.
As we walked back to the B&B we were happy to see that the sky was definitely clearing away to the west.
Richard and Pauline had been to this bar twelve years previously and he sent me this picture to prove it. Goodness me, they were the same musicians…
During our visit, my wife consoled me by saying that if it wasn’t for the rain, the countryside wouldn’t be so beautifully green on the good days.
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The power of positive thinking! Which part did you visit?
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I am trying to prepare for Ireland in thinking it may rain for two weeks solidly. I hope I shall have some of your previous luck. I think that is quite something that the
Musicians have played on for 12 years, likely more? A popular act apparently. 🙂
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My guess is that they have performed the same songs for a hundred years!
Are you going to Ireland? What is your itinerary?
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Yes in late September to the south for two weeks. A couple days in Dublin, Limerick area and then Killarney. Open to suggestions for day trips from those areas. For once we are not preplanned to the last minute. 🙂
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I remember you telling me. Anywhere on the west coast will not disappoint but I especially recommend Dingle!
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Thanks Andrew! It is the one day tour we have booked. 🙂
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You really need more than one day in Dingle Sue. The evening pub entertainment is really good and you need to take a boat trip to see Fungi the dolphin! My advice is cancel the trip and drive there and spend a couple of nights in the town.
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Thanks Andrew. Will see what we can do. We are going to do the boat trip. Appreciate your help with the plans.
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Will you be hiring a car?
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Yes we are. Traveling with Dave’s brother and wife. They are retired so will arrive two weeks ahead of us.
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That’s good it means that you can go practically anywhere you choose.
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Yes the four of us were chatting last night and love having that flexibility. Really looking forward to it!
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My advice is don’t be too ambitious, distances look short in Ireland but the roads are narrow and difficult and can unexpectedly extend estimated journey times. Don’t try and do the Ring of Kerry in just one day!
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That’s very good advice Andrew. I can see some preliminary plans may need to be adjusted.
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I’ve been in Ireland for six months, Sue and it rained any single day. Be preoared. However, it is an enchanting place.
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That is so unlucky, I have enjoyed mostly good weather on all my trips, just one day of rain.
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Eventually , it didn’t matter, rain is part of that country. Did you visit the Aran islands?
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No, didn’t get off the mainland but there is a good reason to go back!
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Aran islands are a very good reason…….if you survive the trip to get there. 😅
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Oh my that sounds brutal. All right will be prepared with the right gear and a positive attitude!
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Don’t worry Sue I have ordered you some of my sunshine for your trip!
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Excellent news! Really appreciate that. 🙂
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The dreaded rain…. it ruins a holiday, hope it did clear up later for you.
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Yes it did, sunshine after the rain!
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Reblogged this on clawingmywayin.
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We’ll be bringing my mother over to Ireland in november. I’ve preparered her for the wet West. And it’s not only in Ireland you find the gass next to the petrol pump. Sadly you can find that in Norway too.
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That one single day is the only day of rain that I have ever had in Ireland!
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I have not had too many myself.
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The scenery is majestic but when the rain closes in it’s a bit miserable, Andrew. Still, I gather you didn’t do so badly? 🙂 🙂
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It cheered up later Jo but this was a horribly dreary day!
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