Scottish Borders, Galashiels, Walter Scott and William Wallace

Neidpath Castle Peebles Scotland

Every year thirty or so members of my golf club go for a week away golfing in Scotland and after three years on the reserve list I finally got an invite.

Unfortunately the week prior to departure I entertained my three grandchildren and one of them left me a parting gift of a very heavy cold so when I set off one Sunday morning I was sniffing and sneezing and relying on cold relief capsules to help me through the journey north.

Actually I think it was probably ‘man flu’ and  I digress here for a moment to explain that this is a condition that this is a strain of flu so powerful and so deadly that it can only be matched by the Bubonic Plague.  It is an incurable virus, which has adapted to only effect the “XY” gene found in men. The virus attacks the immune system ten thousand times more seriously than an average flu and causes excruciating pain and discomfort for the victim.

For all of the week I felt awful but I played golf for four days but on Friday I woke to grey skies and persistent rain so on account of the fact that I was due to go on holiday to Wales a couple of days later and I didn’t want to get worse and spoil that I decided against putting on the leaking waterproofs and dragging myself around the fifth course of the week and thought that I might do a little bit of sightseeing instead.

I was staying in the town of Galashiels in the Scottish Borders  which is so far south in Scotland that it is even nearer the equator than the town of Berwick-on-Tweed, the furthest town north in England but what a wonderfully scenic and historic part of the country.

This is Walter Scott country where the great man of Scottish literature chose to live and receive his literary inspiration and the land of William Wallace and the marcher lands that separated England from Scotland and was the scene of much medieval warfare and fighting.

Galashiels Raid Stane Englishman's Syke

And so it was in Galashiels where I came across memorial called “The Raid Stane” the site of an incident in 1337 when a raiding party of English soldiers were picking wild plums close to the town and and were caught by angry Scots who came across them by chance and slaughtered them all.  It seems that they were picking and eating sour fruit and they were so unwell that they were unable to fight back.

Today the town’s coat of arms shows two foxes reaching up to eat plums from a tree, and the motto is Sour Plums pronounced in Scots as soor plooms.  Every year in June there is an event in the town called the Galashiels Braw Lads Gathering which celebrates the event and by all accounts if you are English you really don’t want to be in town that particular night.

Angry Scots

I spent a half an hour or so in the granite town of Galashiels and with the rain getting heavier returned to the car and with the stubborn grey skies refusing to clear away planned a route south towards the town of Jedburgh and followed a route through sweeping hills, purple with heather and decorated with the ragged stumps of the ruins of castles and derelict lookout towers, testimony to its turbulent history.

I passed through the town of Melrose with its ruined Abbey which is said to be the secret  burial site of the heart of Robert the Bruce but I didn’t stop there because I calculated that I only had time for one ruined abbey and that was going to be Jedburgh.

I did however make detour into a valley of the River Tweed and stopped for a while at Scott’s view which is a place where allegedly he liked to stop by and reflect on life.  I am not disputing this but it this rather remote place is about ten miles or so from where he lived so in days before automobiles this would not be something that the average person, or even the great Sir Walter Scott, would be able to do on impulse.  It was a nice view all the same and apparently his funeral cortege stopped off here for a short while on his way to his burial spot in the grounds of nearby Dryburgh Abbey.

One of my favourite Scott stories is how he saved the Scottish bank note.  In 1826 there was a proposal to abandon Scottish notes and adopt the English notes instead.  Under the pseudonym Malachi Malagrowther Scott campaigned hard against the proposal and was eventually successful.  In recognition of this a picture of Scott even today appears on every Bank of Scotland note.

Walter Scott bank note

Instead of visiting the Abbey I sought out a massive stone statue of William Wallace standing solitary and magnificent in half armour and kilt, a massive claymore hanging menacingly from his belt and leaning on a giant sword fully fifteen feet tall.

Thanks to the hopelessly historically inaccurate Mel Gibson film ‘Braveheart’, quite possibly the most aggressively Anglophobe and historically inaccurate film ever made, William Wallace remains a burning symbol of Scottish nationalism but the truth is that his fame is based on one lucky victory against the English and a conveniently overlooked string of subsequent defeats.

I thought he looked rather sad and forlorn stuck out here abandoned on a ridge overlooking the river wondering what might have been and with nothing to detain me here for more than a few minutes I swiftly moved on towards my intended destination.

William Wallace

30 responses to “Scottish Borders, Galashiels, Walter Scott and William Wallace

  1. I wonder if anybody nowadays reads Sir Walter Scott. I read ‘Ivanhoe’ as a little boy and then tried to reread it about 5 years ago but I didn’t succeed. I think Scott belongs in that rather large category of writers who were very popular because television had yet to be invented.

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  2. We keep talking about visiting . . . we want to see the castle used in Highlander (there can be only one).

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  3. Been to Melrose years ago and loved the area – I remember it being green, lush and very beautiful (no rain though when we were there). You did well to fit in so much exploring with a compromised immune system and an incurable virus.

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  4. You are my hero: too sick to play golf but not too sick sightsee.

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  5. I just read the section about ‘man flu’ to my husband. When I pass on this cold acquired in Ireland I am certain he too will suffer from symptoms like the Bubonic Plague. So funny.
    I agree Wallace does look a bit forlorn. Likely tired of holding the bloody heavy sword.

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  6. amazing that you survived the “man flu”.. incredible achievement 🙂 thanks for fighting it so you can share these wonderful experiences with us!

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  7. Aw, well, in the end the film got one thing brutally right: he was hanged, drawn and quartered! I doubt he yelled “Freedom!”, though there is no doubt he must have yelled, eh?!

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  8. Hope you get over your cold/flu. One of my husband’s ancestors is Walter Scott.

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  9. astonishing that you survived the “man influenza”.. fantastic accomplishment 🙂 a debt of gratitude is in order for battling it so you can impart these great encounters to us!

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  10. Darn! I was looking forward to Jedburgh. 🙂 🙂 Another place I’ve been rained on. Most of our trips over the border were spent eating toasted teacakes (a fetish of my husband’s) in teashops in an attempt to stay warm and dry.

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  11. First, Andrew, sorry for the ‘man-flu.’ It sounds miserable and even more dampening on you golf game that the weather. I’ve had enough grand-kid based bugs to have plenty of empathy. In fact I consider myself lucky when I visit the kids and don’t pick up something! (I also make sure I’ve had my flu shots.) I believe that some of my ancestors on the Scottish side lived in the border lands and would have been part of that frequent warfare. I found the story about Scott’s use of a pseudonym interesting. It seemed like a common practice, at least it was in early America. And now the Internet has brought it back with the Trolls on a much lower and more nasty level. –Curt

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  12. Ladies just don’t understand the gravity of manflu! You did well to even drive, you must have the tenacity of the other Scott!

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  13. I’ve only ever tipped my toes in Glasgow, but this sounds like a beautiful part of bonnie Scotland, Andrew. Never knew you were a golf player. You must have a real passion for it if man-flu didn’t stop you going.

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