“See Naples and die. Well, I do not know that one would necessarily die after merely seeing it, but to attempt to live there might turn out a little differently”, Mark Twain – The Innocents Abroad
A few weeks ago I suggested to some regular travelling pals that we should go to Naples in Italy for a few days. They were horrified by the suggestion because of the city’s reputation as being quite dangerous. They said that they would prefer to go to Barcelona in Spain even though I pointed out that the Spanish city is the pickpocket capital of Europe.
So we made plans to visit Naples, the third largest city in Italy (after Rome and Milan) by ourselves.
In preparation for travel I carried out my usual research and used my favourite benchmarks to try and understand the country that I was visiting. I started as usual with the Human Development Index which ranks countries by level of ‘human development’ and the statistic is composed amongst other criteria from data on life expectancy, education and per-capita gross national income. Italy is ranked twenty-seventh which is quite low, especially for Europe but it is improving and is up two places from the previous year.
The European economic crisis has had a negative effect on Italy’s position in the Europe Happiness Index and it is rated at only twentieth out of thirty which is some way behind the United Kingdom at thirteenth. Finland is the happiest and Albania the least jolly.
Not surprisingly Italy is the country with the most UNESCO World Heritage Sites; it has fifty-three, seven more than Spain which has the second most sites in Europe. I have visited half of the sites in Spain but when I reviewed the Italy list I was disappointed to find that I have been to less than a quarter. The historical centre of Naples is on the list and although I have been there before it was a long time before it was added to the list.
Italy has a lot of coastline which stretch for four and a half thousand miles and along this coastline are three hundred and forty-two Blue Flag Beaches which is the fifth highest amongst participating countries. The Bay of Naples is not very famous for beaches and there are none at all along this particular stretch of coastline.
My next measure is always the Eurovision Song Contest and Italy has participated in the annual contest forty-three times since its debut in the very first contest in 1956. They have won the contest twice but the most famous Italian entry made only third place in 1958. “Nel blu dipinto di blu” or most popularly known as “Volare” by Domenico Modungo.
Despite its success the entry surprisingly only came third in the 1958 competition after France and Switzerland but was later translated into several languages and was covered by a wide range of international performers including Al Martino, David Bowie, Cliff Richard, Frank Sinatra, Louis Armstrong, Luciano Pavarotti, The Gipsy Kings and my personal favourite Dean Martin. I might be wrong here but I don’t think any of these musical giants ever recorded cover versions of ‘Waterloo’?
Flying even short distances can be a tedious business, not much to see or do but there are one or two exceptions and flying south across the Alps is one of them. The aircraft seems to come across them so suddenly and even flying at thirty-seven thousand feet, the earth suddenly gets an awful lot closer and suddenly you are only twenty-thousand feet high. And the snow covered black granite peaks rise like soft meringue peaks below. It is a wonderful sight and I never tire of it but it doesn’t last long and just as dramatically as they rise in southern France they fall away rapidly in Northern Italy.
I always enjoy flying over the Alps, it reminds me of my very first flight and continental holiday in 1976 when I visited Sorrento just south of Naples.
We arrived in Naples around mid-morning and the only sensible way to reach the city and the hotel was by taxi. I hate taxis, I am a very nervous taxi passenger, I am petrified of the metre which seems to rack up charges at an alarming rate and I spend any taxi journey fixated upon the clock. I am almost as afraid of taxi drivers as I am of dogs, but that is another story.
My friend Dai Woosnam once challenged me on this point when he commented: “… there is a contradiction between someone who avoids taxis like the plague, but is happy to spend £100+ a night on a hotel !! It is such contradictions that make people interesting!” Well, here is my rationale: A fifteen minute, €30 taxi ride costs €2.25 a minute, a €120 hotel room for twenty-four hours costs .10 cents per minute so it is a simple question of economics and value for money. If I hired the taxi for twenty-four hours at these rates it would cost me €3,300!
I loathe spending money on taxis especially when the flight here cost only £20. Kim tells me that I should look at it in a different way – because we got the flight so cheap then we can easily afford a taxi.
As usual in Italy we managed to get a driver who looked like and drove like Bruce Willis in an action movie car chase, the type where the cars scatter dustbins and demolish vegetable stalls, and he rattled through the streets at break neck speed, occasionally using his mobile phone and cursing any two second hold up or inconvenient red light and I was thankful when the journey finally ended.
I hate taxis too! Norway and Switzerland the costs made me weep whilst I was knowingly scammed in Athens, Milan, Istanbul and Ljubljana leading to stand up rows and threats of violence (on me). I feel a blog post coming….. love your Naples pictures – I went in 2001 between visits to Sorrento and Sicily. Not as intimidating as I had been led to believe.
LikeLiked by 1 person
No, not at all, at no time did I feel in any sort of danger except for the incident of the twelve year old child riding a scooter head on towards me!
LikeLiked by 1 person
I too have a friend like yours. She won’t join me in Palermo, one of my favourite cities as she is sure she will be mugged and robbed. And we once had a taxi driver in Sicily who, when he got out to fill up with petrol, lit up a cigarette. I thought my husband was going to kill him when he leapt out of the taxi to push him away from the pumps.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I liked Palermo, I didn’t feel threatened in any way, the same with Naples! Smoking at a petrol filling station is however a bit dodgy!
LikeLiked by 1 person
We have been in Naples and felt quite safe everywhere.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Same for us, I never one moment felt in any danger.
LikeLike
So glad you are going to tell us about this great city. It is on my itinerary for next year. Of course, I only get one day to see what I can see, but happy to have you scout it out for me.
LikeLiked by 1 person
A day is not long enough. You will have some tough choices to make. Personally I would choose the historical centre but maybe you would prefer the museums or a train ride to Pompeii?
LikeLike
A day is never enough, but it is better than not at all! Probably will focus on historical center. I have been to several exhibitions about Pompeii, so I will want to cover new ground.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Pompeii takes all day, Herculaneum (which (in my opinion) is better takes half a day and the Museum also half a day. The historical centre is gloriously grubby and uncared for but is good for a full day including the inevitable pizza stop!
LikeLike
Luckily I have also been to a gorgeous exhibition of Herculaneum artifacts. Not the same as going, but delicious. Of the two, I preferred Herculaneum.
LikeLike
It is better than Pompeii, better preserved, smaller and more visitor friendly. Just my opinion.
LikeLike
Try Kathmandu, all day Taxi for £10! Downside? YOU won’t last the day!
LikeLiked by 2 people
That is some recommendation Brian!
LikeLiked by 1 person
It’s cheap though!
LikeLiked by 1 person
I’ve had mechanical breakdowns, shredded tyres, engine blow ups, run out of fuel, Maoist hold ups, village blockades, meters going faster than the speedo, leaking roofs, etc etc. But, a driver who really cares about looking after you despite his leased heap of junk being a death trap!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Kim has it right!
LikeLiked by 2 people
I will continue to resent taxi fares Sue!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Quite right!
LikeLike
I was petrified every time I was in a moving vehicle in Italy. Lines dividing the road mean nothing to their drivers.
I’ve never been to Naples, but the US military there so I’ve certainly heard stories about how dangerous it is from many who were stationed there, I’ll be interested in hearing if you found that it lived up to its reputation.
LikeLiked by 1 person
They are probably the worst drivers in Europe. I hired a car there in 2013 and promised myself that I would never do it again.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I’m surprised Italy is so low on the Happiness Index. Between the wine, food and beautiful scenery Italians have so much to be happy about.
LikeLike
I think it is down to the economy. Wine and good food is ok so long as you have a job and some money!
LikeLike
Another good tour. The street scene with the man at bottom right and the disappearing central distance is a beauty.
LikeLike
Thanks Derrick, a fascinating city for sure!
LikeLiked by 1 person
I have very sunny memories of Naples and a long walk along the Molho (if I’ve remembered that right- the seafronf if I haven’t 🙂 ). We ferried/hydrofoiled from there to Ischia and to Capri, and spent a half day wandering in the city. Could have done with more time but we were Sorrento based and there was so much to see and do along that coast.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Good memories Jo, I found it to be a wonderful city, vibrant and full of life!
LikeLiked by 1 person
I live that Eurovision is one of your measures of a place. I recently went to Monaco and got to hum its only ever winner to myself as we explored… but even that wasn’t quite enough to make up for the tiny principality’s skyscraper awfulness.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Never been there, probably never will. Thanks for dropping by!
LikeLike
Love, not live. Bl**dy autocorrect.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Reblogged this on clawingmywayin.
LikeLiked by 1 person
That seems a contradiction . . . you want the guy to drive as fast as possible if you’re watching the meter. I don’t know about Europe, but here taxi meters (taxies are the only place we use meters . . . everywhere else, we use feet or yards) add up based on both time and distance. You often can’t minimize distance, but you can sure minimize time.
. . . I think those taxi drivers are doing you a favor . . .
LikeLike
Another excellent suggestion to help me deal with my phobia. Thanks.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I do like Kim’s approach to spending for taxis. The alternative often doesn’t bear thinking about.
LikeLiked by 2 people
According to the TV, Naples is run by the Mafia. And when the TV crew did a tour of the streets it certainly didn’t look too impressive. Back in 2002, my daughter’s school visited Vesuvius and stayed near there but they were totally forbidden to visit Naples. From what I was told this is pretty standard for what is a very popular area for school trips.
LikeLiked by 1 person
To be fair John we were there for three days and apart from the terror taxi ride I never felt in any danger at all. No different to any other big city I guess!
LikeLike
I remember one taxi ride through Manhattan that I seriously thought marked my last day on earth! The driver not only drove faster than the speed limit, he more than doubled it. Careening through the busy traffic, he kept looking back at me, talking while aiming his car, barely missing other traffic. I was never so happy to reach a destination as I was that day.
That said, I agree with you about taxis, mostly. I avoid them when at all possible. I had other taxi rides in Paris and Berlin that were in horrific traffic but handled with aplomb and skill by the drivers, exceptions to my experience other places where I had no option but to take a taxi.
LikeLike
ate Italian Taxi Drivers as the most lunatic. Thanks for dropping by!
LikeLike
Just observing the standard issue Italian driver, I suspect one would walk first before stopping an Italian taxi! LOL!
LikeLiked by 2 people
Or have a beer or two to numb the pain!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Huh, the quote on see Naples and Die, that reminds me of how many people tell me, don’t go there or you might die. If you rent a B&B in Rome, they might sneak in and kill you when your sleeping at nite. A terrorist might kill you if you go there, you might become a drug mule if you go there, etc…. That quote caught my eye.
LikeLiked by 1 person
There is always plenty of advice available on where to avoid. Naples is no different from any other big city. Just remain alert. Thanks for dropping by.
LikeLiked by 1 person
It is obvious that Kim is very wise woman.
We had the same experience with a taxi driver in Naples.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Pingback: Travels in Italy, Graffiti and A Load of Baloney | Have Bag, Will Travel