“To see Naples as we saw it in the early dawn from far up on the side of Vesuvius, is to see a picture of wonderful beauty. At that distance its dingy buildings looked white, rank on rank of balconies, windows and roofs, they piled themselves up from the blue ocean till the colossal castle of St. Elmo topped the grand white pyramid and gave the picture symmetry, emphasis and completeness
But do not go within the walls and look at it in detail. That takes away some of the romance of the thing.”
Mark Twain – The Innocents Abroad
On this point I have to disagree with Mark Twain, the back streets are the romance of the thing!