Travels in Spain, Pedro Bernardo and the Tipping Point of History

Pedro Bernardo 19

The drive north from Talavera de la Reina took us into the neighbouring Province of Castilla y Leon and through the little town of Buenaventura, which was closed, towns like this are often closed in the afternoon I have found and then the climb became more dramatic as we reached almost six hundred feet when we made the approach to the mountain village of Pedro Bernardo.

We managed to stay just short of the cloud and the sun was still shining as we drove through several tricky corners and into the village and easily found the Hostal El Cerro on a dramatic bend in the road overlooking the valley below.

Although only two star it was an excellent hotel with a great room, a wonderful view and with excellent weather the ideal place for an hour or so of  enjoying the sun on the very private terrace.  After a while the grey sky started to muscle in and there was a drop or two of rain but inside there was a Jacuzzi to experiment with and after a half an hour or so it had blown over and the blue sky reasserted itself and there were good views over the rural hinterland with forests of elms, pines, chestnut and hazelnut trees and waterfalls and rivers making the town a scenic paradise.

The origins of Pedro Bernardo are not clear; the original name of the village was Navalasolana and there is a popular local legend that talks about the leaders of two groups of shepherds, Pedro Fernández and Bernardo Manso. They started to fight and struggled to get the control of the village and finally the feudal lord of the council tired of it all came up with a solution and decided to change the name of Navalasolana to Pedro and Bernardo to achieve peace and stop the struggles between the two squabbling bands.

This sounds very much to me like the spat between Steve McQueen and Paul Newman over who should get top billing in the film ‘Towering Inferno‘ and where there was an equally sensible solution – to provide dual top billing, the credits were arranged diagonally, with McQueen lower left and Newman upper right. Thus, each appeared to have “first” billing depending on whether the credit was read left-to-right or top-to-bottom.

What a silly argument and they are both dead now anyway!

Towering Inferno

In the early evening we walked into Pedro Bernardo, passing first through the Plaza de Torres and then the Plaza Mayor where groups of mainly old men were sitting in small groups and discussing the big important issues of the day.

Through the twisting narrow streets flanked by crumbling buildings with rotting timber and decaying plaster walls,  Precarious wooden balconies and barely inhabitable houses we wandered aimlessly through the streets until we arrived at the church somewhere near the top of the village.  It was nothing special and really hardly worth the walk at all so we made our way back down and stayed for a while in the main square and had a drink at a bar where there was reluctance to serve us at an outside table on account of the fact that the owner and bar staff were watching a bull fight from Seville on the television in the bar which demanded all of their attention.

I formed the impression that Pedro Bernardo was a town on the precipice, about to tip over in an avalanche of change that will achieve an instant transformation and erase a hundred years or so of history in the blink of an eye.  It is rather like one of those penny drop machines in a games arcade, one shove and it will all tip over.  One day it will all be gone.  It is a shame but it will be ultimately it will be impossible to cling on to the crumbling rotting wreckage of an old town like this and everyone despite their objections will eventually be obliged to move to the nearby featureless modern new town instead.

Old people will weep, young folk will smile.  Old people will lament, young folk will rejoice.  Property developers will move in behind them and there will soon be a new old town of modern swanky apartments and boutique hotels.

I am so glad that I saw Pedro Bernardo as it once was.

The Hostel El Cerro was a perfect place, a rare mix of rustic charm and modern sophistication and we had no hesitation in eating in the hotel dining room.  It was only eight o’clock which seemed to surprise the staff but the chef was already there (in the bar as it happened) and we tucked in to an excellent Chuletón de Ávila, an excellent cut of prime beef steak that we had enjoyed only last year on a visit to that city.

Although it was still quite early, we had been a long day and had had an early start so after the evening meal we went back to the room and sat on the balcony with a final glass of red wine and from our elevated position watched the stars twinkling overhead in the sky as though from the prow of a ship and stared into black emptiness except for the lights of the distant villages, Lanzahita, La Higuera and Ramacastanas lying like constellations in the vague immensity of Spain.

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23 responses to “Travels in Spain, Pedro Bernardo and the Tipping Point of History

  1. What a lovely little town, a rare find by sounds of it! We never get the balance of change right do we? 🤔 It feels as though Olhão is on a similar precipice at moment, the change has certainly notched up a few gears.😕

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  2. Love these old ‘gems’.. 😉

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  3. I really enjoyed your thoughts about how nice old places are doomed to be swallowed up by the money makers. It really communicates your feelings very well.

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  4. Excellent post – interesting legend – nice link with the film – fascinating balconies – good people pics

    Liked by 1 person

  5. Did they really have a blue about who got top billing? Bloody childish really, Did one get paid more?

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    • Yes, I believe they did. There was a lot of rivalry between them McQueen was jealous that Newman was supposedly the most handsome man that ever lived and Newman hated the fact that McQueen was a better racing driver.

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  6. Those are the towns that makes me come back to Spain even if the big cities are a must.

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  7. Beautiful photos. About the credits for McQueen and Newman, most likely it was their agents causing the trouble.

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  8. I felt the mood of the place through your writing. Well done. It sounds like exactly the kind of town I would like to find, and I share your pleasure in having seen it as it was. I’ll bet your prediction is correct and eventually it will be polished into the new hot spot to visit.

    And always, I love balconies.

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  9. Immense, yes, and incredibly noisy 🙂 🙂 Conversation seems to go up several decibels whenever we cross the border. It was particularly noticeable on Epiphany when we went across to see the 3 kings. Party time!

    Liked by 1 person

  10. More personality in the old. At least I think so, Andrew. As always, your photos of doors want me to see what is on the other side. –Curt

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  11. Sounds delightful.

    Liked by 1 person

  12. It sound like a nice little town:)

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