Travels in Spain, A Walking Tour of Madrid

Madrid Bear

“To go to bed at night in Madrid marks you as a little queer. For a long time your friends will be a little uncomfortable about it. Nobody goes to bed in Madrid until they have killed the night.” – Ernest Hemingway

According to official statistics, after London, Paris, Rome and Barcelona, Madrid is the fifth most visited city in Europe (in that order) but I wasn’t quite sure what to expect.  Compared to London, Paris and Rome it only achieved capital status relatively recently, and there is no iconic building to define it, no Eiffel Tower, no Colosseum and no Westminster Abbey and no famous cathedral or castle either so I was curious about what we were likely to see.  Hemingway liked it so I was sure that I would too.

On the first day we could have taken the option of a city bus tour but I really do dislike them with most of the time spent in long lines of slow moving traffic or at red lights with nothing much to see and then flashing past places of interest with only a split second photo opportunity, so on our first day we decided to take a ‘free’ walking tour of the city.  I knew that it wouldn’t be ‘free’ of course but everyone else seemed to think that it was a good idea.

We joined the tour in the appropriately named Plaza de la Puerto Del Sol because the sun was blazing and in this wide open space the rays reflected off the buildings and the paving slabs and the temperature was rising steadily as we walked past the statues of King Charles III and the Bear and the Madroño tree, which we learned is the heraldic symbol of the city (top picture).

Madrid 04

Interesting I thought as only a month previously I had been in the city of Berlin which also has a bear as a city symbol and I was also reminded now that as a boy I grew up in Warwickshire which has a County symbol of a Bear and an Old Rugged Staff.  I expect lots of towns and cities adopt the bear as their symbol.  In the USA California has one on its flag and the bear is of course the symbol of the country of Russia.

This Berlin…

I Love Berlin Bear

This is my old Boy Scout badge Warwickshire Bear …

Warwickshire Bear

There have been no wild bears in England since William Shakespeare was a lad and none in Germany for nearly two hundred years but there are still some in Spain in Cantabria and Asturias in the north of the country.

The Plaza is the very centre of Madrid and the hub of the radial network of the city’s roads and from here we walked a few streets to the Plaza Mayor.

The Plaza Mayor is the original city square, impressive but not the largest in Spain because that honour belongs to Salamanca in Castilla y Leon.  In the centre stands a grand statue of King Philip III and this place has previously been a market, a bull ring and a place of gruesome public executions but now it is a large cobbled pedestrianised area, grand buildings, temporary exhibitions and pavement cafés all around the sides. We stayed for a while and then left to continue our tour.

The route weaved its way eastwards, stopping every so often to explain points of interest, a Flamenco Bar (where tickets were available for later) the oldest restaurant in the World (where tables were available for later) an expensive indoor market (where tables were available immediately) and a fast food place selling calamari sandwich which the guide explained is a popular lunch time snack in Madrid.

Madrid Calamari Sandwich

The tour took us as far as the Palacio Real de Madrid, which with an area of one hundred and thirty-five square metres and over three thousand rooms is the biggest Palace in Europe and more than twice as big as Buckingham Palace in London.  It is larger even than Versailles in France (sorry Versailles). It is the official residence of the King of Spain but he doesn’t live there, probably because it must be a bugger to heat in the winter and it is only used for official State Ceremonies.  King Felipe VI and the Royal Family choose to live instead in the more modest Palacio de la Zarzuela on the outskirts of Madrid.

We decided that we would come back to the Palace later when the tour was finished.

We walked around the outside of the white stone Palace and admired the views over the royal gardens and then visited the adjacent Plaza de Orient a spacious and well laid out pedestrian area with an extravagant fountain and equestrian statue of Philip IV surrounded by immaculate gardens and lines of ugly face statues of former Kings celebrating the period of the Reconquesta.

The walking tour finished close by with a selling pitch for more tours and a fee, I just knew that it wouldn’t be ‘free’ but to be fair it had been very good and we enjoyed it and we happily handed over a contribution to the guide.

It was time for lunch so we thought it might be a good idea to sit in the Plaza Mayor but when we arrived there the prices were higher than we generally like to pay so we abandoned this idea and returned to the Plaza de la Puerto Del Sol and looked for a tapas bar.  We selected one in a side street and instead of tapas all decided that we should try the calamari sandwich which I personally hoped might be similar to a nice fish-finger sandwich.  When it came it wasn’t and we wished we hadn’t so we washed it down with a beer and returned to the streets.  It was so bad that I can honestly say that I would have rather had a McDonalds Filet-O-Fish!

Filet O Fish

Or, even better, an English Fish Finger sandwich…

Fish finger sandwich

What would you choose, Calamari Baguette, McDonalds Filet-O-Fish or a Fish Finger Sandwich?

Click on an image to scroll through the gallery…

Some time ago I wrote a post about my favourite Plaza Mayors in Spain.  You can read that post here.

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41 responses to “Travels in Spain, A Walking Tour of Madrid

  1. I’ve had some fantastic calamari baguettes in Spain, you were just unlucky. Lovely photos by the way.

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  2. My favourite European capital city. I quite like the Playa Mayor and if you can find a good sheltered corner out of the sun it’s a good place to “explore” people, wine and philosophy.

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  3. Which officiel statistics are you saying?

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  4. As to Madrid been a Spaniard and lived in Madrid, visit every year (back again late august next) need to read Tim Parfitt A Load of Bull, Mcmillan publication London. He is an Englishman sent to Madrid to start Vogue and GQ magazines after the franco dictatorship; he still lives there met him, read the book to know about Madrid as I knew it. From Madrid to heaven and a hole in the sky to look down on it every day!

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  5. https://paris1972-versailles2003.com/from-madrid-to-heaven-and/
    from my blog and see my blogroll for sites on Madrid. Cheers !!!

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  6. Never had any of those sandwiches, though I am a fan of a battered fish sandwich but only if the fish comes from the fish and chip shop. Not had one in a long time so maybe it’s about time!

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  7. That sandwich must have been bad – but your pictures aren’t

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  8. I enjoy a calamari bocadillo but ask for some aioli or regular mayonnaise as they can be dry. Madrid is an interesting city and great to walk around. I love The Prado and could spend days in it.

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  9. Thoroughly enjoyed a visit to Madrid with friends a decade ago…time I returned!

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  10. McDonald every time; I’d ask them to hold the cheese, but otherwise I know the quality of the meal as opposed to the other stuff you mentioned.

    When we were in Berne (1995) they had a pit with a couple of bears in it . . . they were in sad shape. I read somewhere that they’ve improved the conditions but at the time I was under the impression it was a torture chamber for miscreant bears.

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    • I used to order the Filet-O-Fish but I haven’t had one for some time. I always go for the good value double cheeseburger.

      The bear is the symbol of the city of Berne and there were reports in 2018 of sightings of a wild brown bear close by in the Alps.

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  11. Great photos. Madrid is on my to-visit list for upcoming years. 😊

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  12. Definitely never MacDonalds and English fish in Spain.. no ways.. 😉

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  13. Andrew,
    I just received a comment from Brian…LordBeariOfBow…in the comment section on his lastest post. He said,
    “I’m in hospital ticker trouble don’t know how long will you can you let those that read my stuff know and I hope to be back soon.”

    so I wanted to share it with you here.
    HUGS,
    Carolyn

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  14. Wild horses wouldn’t get me into a Macdonalds so I’ll have the calamari personally. However if it was dry I’d suggest it was overcooked. Properly cooked with aioli please!

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  15. These photos are wonderful! I particularly love the figures on the cathedral door and the street entertainers. One of them appears particularly lifelike. A look at the sandwich and I thought it was onion rings. Onion rings may have been a better sandwich…

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