East Anglia – Bury St Edmunds and The Patron Saint of Pandemics

Bury St Edmunds was another town that I had never visited. A few years ago I drove through it and was struck by the elegant market place with a tall cathedral and fine Georgian buildings and I made a note to self to pay a proper visit one day.
This was it.
In terms of the weather we had unfortunately picked a very bad week to be on an English staycation and we weren’t too disappointed to be leaving the holiday home (caravan) so we packed up early and headed away from the coast and into rural Suffolk and drove through villages which had seen significant overnight snowfall. I thought that I was in Alaska. Contrary to popular folklore March had roared in like a lion and instead of going out like a lamb was going out the same way.
Fortunately the further west that we drove the weather began to incrementally improve and there were even some glimpses of elusive blue sky. We arrived in late morning which was too early to book into our chosen hotel so we made instead for the centre of the town. Local folk call the town Bury but being from the North I always think of Bury as being in Manchester so I prefer to think of this place as Bury St Edmunds. It sounds posher.

After Ipswich and Lowestoft, Bury St Edmunds is the third largest place in Suffolk and we liked it immediately. After tea and biscuits in the Cathedral coffee shop Kim and Mum made directly for the High Street shops and I went off to investigate the Abbey Gardens and the Cathedral.
The Abbey of St Edmund was once one of the richest and most powerful Benedictine monasteries in all of England. In 869, Edmund, King of the East Angles was murdered by invading Danes when he refused to renounce Christianity. For his stubbornness he was tied to a tree and shot through with arrows and had his head cut off to make sure. No half measures in those days. I wonder sometimes about medieval torture, surely the victim was well and truly dead before the torturers had finished. Vladamir Putin would have been a medieval torturer I am sure.

His death led to the building of the Abbey to house his remains and his shrine quickly became a place of pilgrimage. The Cult of Edmund flourished during the Middle Ages and he was temporarily revered as the patron Saint of medieval England until at some point he was replaced by Saint George.
Today he has the unlikely title of the Patron Saint of Pandemics so I imagine that he has been rather busy listening to prayers for the past couple of years or so. He is said to have been given this title after the French city of Toulouse (who claimed to have some important relics of his) became ravaged by plague in the seventeenth century. Residents of the prayed to Edmund after which the plague came to an abrupt end. As Michael Caine might have said “Not a lot of people know that”.

Maybe if more people had known this the World could have saved a fortune on developing Covid vaccinations and going into expensive lockdown. I wish that I had known that because if I had I would have said a prayer to St Edmund because a few days after returning home from East Anglia both Kim and I both tested positive for Covid.

After the dissolution of the monasteries in the 1530s the Abbey naturally began to fall into disrepair and lots of stone was taken for alternative building projects around the town. I was quite surprised therefore to discover that so much of it remained in a vast well maintained town centre park.
Near the Cathedral there are houses built into the walls which reminded of Antoni Gaudi creations in Barcelona. I don’t suppose that Gaudi ever visited Bury St Edmunds but if he had he may have got inspiration here,

I spent some time in the Gardens, walked every path and read each and every information board.

Towards the end of the afternoon I made my visit to the Cathedral. Free admission by the way. Up to 1914 Suffolk didn’t have a Cathedral and was part of a wider diocese of East Anglia with the Cathedral in Norwich in Norfolk but it was then decided that it required one of its own. This presented the Church with a dilemma.

Ipswich is the biggest town in the County but Bury St Edmunds had the most famous church thanks to the St Edmund connection. The Church came to a compromise, Ipswich would get the Bishop’s House and be the base of the diocese and Bury St Edmunds would get the Cathedral and everyone agreed that that was a good idea except perhaps for the Bishop who has a hundred mile round trip every week to get to Sunday service which would have been much more of an inconvenience over a hundred years ago than it is today.

Ipswich is not unique, it is not the only County town without an Anglican Cathedral and there are others – Warwick, Cambridge (I mentioned that before), Northampton (I mentioned that before as well), Nottingham, Aylesbury and Shrewesbury are other examples. At the same time that Suffolk became a diocese so too did Essex with its own Cathedral in Chelmsford.

Not a brilliant Cathedral I have to say but it provided me with a pleasant fifteen minute visit, especially as the choir was practising which was very nice, before I left and rejoined the others at the agreed time.

I had enjoyed my afternoon in Bury St Edmunds and I was forced to concede that this was a town where half a day it isn’t long enough so I will have to make another note to self to return one day and stay longer.

Click on an image to scroll through the Gallery…

25 responses to “East Anglia – Bury St Edmunds and The Patron Saint of Pandemics

  1. I’m unclear . . . is a patron saint supposed to be for or against the thing for which they are a patron?

    When they say St. Christopher is the patron saint of travelers, I always assumed they meant he was for travelers, safeguarding their travels. That would mean Edmund is for pandemics flourishing . . . which, lately, they have.

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  2. Wow. I so love that light blue door in the wall – It is as good an example of the meaning of the word anachronism. I would love to see how it works from inside. Another big thank you Andrew.

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  3. That was very informative, thank you.
    I very much prefer the modern statue of St Edmund made out of electrical flex. The other one is over simple and it could be anybody. Couldn’t the sculptor do arrows?

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  4. A thoroughly fascinating post. I like the Gaudi speculation and the usual shopping/investigation split 🙂

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  5. Not a lot of people know a lot of the facts and figures you present, Andrew. I l liked Michael Caine too, and we found Bury St. Edmunds very appealing despite the rain. Fond memories of duck pate sandwiches in the ‘smallest pub in Britain’..

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  6. Hope both you and Kim have fully recovered

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  7. The patron saint of pandemics huh…well who’d have thought it. When I used to drive through or past Bury St Edmunds (I can’t shorten the name either, there’s only one Bury) the thing that always struck me was the smell, and it’s still the most vivid memory. The smell was of boiling beets from the big sugar plant (British Sugar Corporation I think) and it was a smell which, while not totally unpleasant, was one which brought on nausea after about five minutes. Sorry B St E but that’s my lingering memory of you.

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    • The smell from the Greene King brewery next to our hotel was by contrast delightful.

      I lived in Spalding in Lincolnshire which also had a sugar beet factory (gone now) and I remember that that took some getting used to.

      Liked by 1 person

  8. Looks definitely worth another visit! Love that blue door in the old wall…would be interesting to see the other side

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  9. I’ve only spent a couple of hours in Bury St Edmunds and found it rather charming. Definitely worth a longer visit. I wish he was still our patron Saint, at least he lived here!

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  10. Such an interesting read. I must visit Bury. Its never
    really been a place I’ve thought to visit, then again I’ve not thought to visit many place ms in the UK. One of the silver-linings of Covid is that its helped me to appreciate what’s on my door step. Thanks for sharing 👍🏾

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  11. If I could pray to a saint and do away with a pandemic, Andrew, I’d definitely change my view on religion. 🙂 –Curt

    Liked by 1 person

  12. Not a place I’ve been but it does look worth a visit. I love the house built into the wall. Poor old Edmund, such a sorry end then dumped as Patron Saint. He’d be much more relevant than George. (I’m not quite sure why we have St Andrew either, rather than a more local Saint).

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