Tag Archives: Cephalonia

Travelling – Gladiator Sandals

Gladiator Sandals Naxos Greece

I had what I called my gladiator sandals since 1999 when I went to Rhodes and they  accompanied me abroad on every single subsequent holiday. By 2006 they were showing signs of wear and were not expected to see through a Greek island hopping adventure. I  made it my mission to see how long I could keep make them last.

The Gladiators made it through the island travels and surprisingly lasted another two years when an important part of the shoe infrastructure failed (one of the straps snapped).

After Rhodes, they had been to the Greek islands of Skiathos, Cephalonia (twice), Santorini (twice), Crete, Thassos, Mykonos, Naxos, Paros, Ios (twice), Sikinos, Amorgos, Milos and Sifnos.  I finally had to accept that they were irreparable whilst on the island of Folegandros so I thought that this was a suitable place to say goodbye and I  left them there to become part of the Greek earth in whatever landfill site they ended up in.

I really loved those sandals!

 

My Favourite Pictures of the Greek Islands – 23

Fiskardo, Kefalonia

As Fiskardo is the only place that escaped the 1953 earthquake damage it is consequently the only village to see examples of the old Venetian architecture.  The buildings around the harbour however had had a very heavy makeover and didn’t feel especially genuine but those in the back streets leading off the harbour were much more authentic.

The waterfront was awash with gaily-painted houses and the narrow streets away from the cobbled sea front were lined with tourist trinket shops and all-in-all Fiskardo felt more up-market than the other villages that we had visited.  To go with this impression also went the prices and a simple round of drinks at a waterside bar cost considerably more drachmas than we had become accustomed to spending.  We watched the fancy boats coming in and out of the bay and the harbour and then as Fiskardo is only quite a small place and it was getting crowded we left and headed back down the twisting coast road again through the rugged wilderness of the north-west coast and towards our intended destination of Assos.

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Kefalonia, Greece

With the Suzuki jeep returned we spent the last full day and the last part day waiting to go back to the airport much as we spent the first day of the holiday.  On the beach and around the pool, walking into the village, drinking at the Italian bar and ocassionally watching the European football.  On Thursday it was my forty-sixth birthday so I spent a bit more time than usual in the Italian bar that day but the evening soccer match was a dull 0 – 0 affair between Sweden and Turkey.

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Kefalonia, Fiskardo and Assos

The north part of Kefalonia is the most wild and rugged and at the very northern tip is the town of Fiskardo which was the only place on the island that wasn’t flattened by the earthquake.  We set off straight after breakfast and after by-passing Argostoli drove through the village of Farsa, which was desperately unremarkable and would have been completely unrecognisable to poor old Captain Corelli.

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Kefalonia, The Massacre of the Acqui Division

Although there were similar incidents in Greece as Nazi Germany assumed control from defeated Italy, in Corfu and Rhodes for example, the Kefalonia Massacre is the most well known because it is thought to have been the second largest slaughter of prisoners of war during World War II.

The events were precipitated by the Italian Armistice on 8th September 1943, which left Italian soldiers who had been fighting alongside and under German command in an extremely difficult and precariously exposed position.

The commander of the Italian division on Kefalonia, General Gandin, initially received contradictory orders and was undecided about whether to surrender, resist, or join the German troops nearby.  He eventually decided to resist, and hundreds of his men died in the ensuing battle, which began on 15th September.

Accounts from the few survivors and the diary of an Austrian soldier involved in the massacre suggest thousands of soldiers were either gunned down while trying to surrender or summarily executed after being taken prisoner.

Bari Puglia Door Detail

The massacre started on 21st  September, and lasted for one dreadful week.  After the Italian surrender to the Allies, Hitler was incensed and issued an order allowing the Germans to summarily execute any Italian officer who resisted ‘for treason’, and on 18th  September, the German High Command issued an order stating that ‘because of the perfidious and treacherous behaviour (of the Italians) on Kefalonia, no prisoners are to be taken.’ 

German soldiers began executing their Italian prisoners in groups, at first killing the surrendering Italians, where they stood, using machine-guns.  When a group of Bavarian soldiers objected to this practice they were threatened with summary execution themselves.  This method however didn’t kill people quickly enough so the Germans marched the remaining soldiers to the San Teodoro town hall and had the prisoners executed by eight member detachments.

General Gandin and one hundred and thirty-seven senior officers were summarily court-martialed on 24th September, executed and their bodies discarded at sea.  Before the execution a sergeant informed each officer that he was being executed for treason, which, given a decision to permit unification of the German and Italian armies in Greece under German command, was technically true.  General Gandin was shot first but just before his execution in act of defiance he threw his Iron Cross to the ground.

An Italian army Chaplain and one of the few survivors, wrote that during the massacre, the Italian officers started to cry, pray and sing.  Many were shouting the names of their mothers, wives and children.  According to the account, three officers hugged and stated that they were comrades while alive and now in death they would go together to paradise, while others were digging through the grass as if trying to escape.  In one place, the Chaplain recalled, ‘the Germans went around loudly offering medical help to those wounded. When about 20 men crawled forward, a machine-gun salvo finished them off.’  Officers gave the Chaplain their personal belongings to take with him and return to their families back in Italy.  The Nazis, however, later confiscated the items.

Most of the soldiers of the Nazi regiment were in fact Austrians.  Alfred Richter, one of the participants in the massacre recounted how a soldier who sung arias for the Germans in the local taverns was forced to sing while his comrades were being executed. The singing soldier’s fate remains unknown. Richter added that he and his regiment comrades felt ‘a delirium of omnipotence’ during the events.

According to Richter the Italian soldiers were killed after surrendering to the soldiers of the 98th Regiment. He described that the fallen Italians were then thrown into heaps of bodies all shot in the head.  The Austrian soldiers started removing the boots from the bodies of the fallen Italians for their own use.  Richter also mentioned that groups of Italians were taken to quarries and walled gardens near the village of Frangata and executed by machine gun fire. The killing lasted for two hours during which time the sound of the machine guns and machine pistols and the screams of the victims could be heard inside the homes of the village.

Northern France Wissant

The bodies of more than nine thousand men who were executed were disposed of in a variety of ways. Bodies were cremated in massive wood pyres, which made the air of the island thick with the smell of burning flesh, or moved to ships where they were buried at sea.  Others, according to Amos Pampaloni, one of the survivors, were executed in full sight of the Greek population in Argostoli harbour on 23rd September 1943 and their bodies were left to rot where they fell, while in smaller streets corpses were decomposing and the stench was insufferable to the point that he could not remain there long enough to take a picture of the carnage.  Bodies were also thrown with rocks tied around them into the sea. In addition the Germans had refused to allow the Acqui soldiers to bury their dead.

memorial-to-acqui

Memorial to the Acqui Division in Verona Italy.

The few soldiers that were saved were assisted by the locals and the ELAS organisation.  An additional three thousand of the survivors in German custody drowned, when the ships Sinfra and Ardena, transporting them to POW camps, sank after striking mines in the Adriatic.  These losses and similar ones from the Italian Dodecanese garrisons were also the result of Nazi policy, as Hitler had instructed the local commanders to forgo ‘all safety precautions’ during the transport of prisoners, ‘regardless of losses’.

After the war the Italian government faced the delicate problem of giving an honorary and final burial to the fallen of Kefalonia.  In 1952 began the sad task of exhumation and in 1953, the bodies were collected and transported to the town of Bari where they are now resting in the Italian National War Memorial.  The final number of Italian dead was 9,646. By feigning death among the corpses just 34 were able to eventually return home.

For me the question has to be, what on earth possessed ordinary people to participate in such an orgy of killing?  I have been to Germany and Austria and the people there are nice, ordinary and welcoming so just how did they manage to participate in such a dreadful crime and how did they justify their actions?

Kefalonia, Villages and Beaches

We drove south past the airport and the further we got away from Argostoli and the tourist strip of Lassi the more we saw the devastation caused by the earthquake.  All along the road there were abandoned villages and houses and buildings that were destroyed by the quake and just waiting for time to take over and their turn to fall over completely.  The 1953 disaster caused huge destruction, with only regions in the north escaping the heaviest tremors and that is the only part of the island where houses remained intact.

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