Tag Archives: Kardamena

Car Hire Misadventures – Kos, 1989

Kos Car Hire 1989

I first went to the Greek island of Kos in 1983 and I liked it so much that I went back again in 1989.  This time I went with my brother and we stayed in the party resort of Kardamena.

We had a budget priced apartment on the edge of the town and we made friends with a single parent family of dad and two sons.  During the course of the week we hired pedalos and bicycles and also a flame red Suzuki Jeep for a day.

We didn’t go far and limited ourselves to driving across the island to the island capital.  The journey was not by the most direct route and took about an hour through all the coastal villages and then through the unexpectedly green plains lying in the shadow of the soaring mountain peaks with the main crops being grapes, almonds, figs, olives, and tomatoes along with wheat and corn and although the harvest was long since past there were still fields of straw like a golden sea of waving champagne next to exhausted black stunted vines and golden melons the size of footballs ripening in the sun.

Kos is much changed now, I last went there in 2012, the seafront was rather shabby, the harbour full of working fishing boats, the civic buildings in need of some repair and the ancient monuments rather run down and decrepit.  We spent an afternoon wandering around the town (it is a city now) and then we made our way back across the interior back to Kardamena.

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Bike Hire Kos 1989Pedalo Hire Kos 1989

Kos, Arrival and Thirty Year Comparison

Kos Greece Dodecanese

Impatient to leave Kardamena we had an early start and after a rushed breakfast and check-out from the hotel we made our way to the busy village square where the buses irregularly leave for Kos town.

The journey was not by the most direct route and took about an hour through all the coastal villages and then through the unexpectedly green plains lying in the shadow of the soaring mountain peaks.  Farming  remains a principal occupation of many people on the island, with the main crops being grapes, almonds, figs, olives, and tomatoes along with wheat and corn and although the harvest was long since past there were still fields of straw like a golden sea of waving champagne next to exhausted black stunted vines and golden melons the size of footballs ripening in the sun.

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Kos, Thirty Years Makes a Difference

Greece Kos Blue Door

“But it has got something, Kos and can already claim a number of distinguished addicts: I know several people who come back for holidays year after year.”  Lawrence Durrell

Kim was up early this morning and went off on her own to explore while I had a final hour of sleep.  After she returned we had what turned out to be a very poor breakfast and then we set off to the village together to examine it in daylight.

We walked the parallel shopping streets lined with shops all selling more or less the same things and now and again bumped into late night revellers only just setting off for beds and a wasted day ahead.

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Kos, Good to be back in Greece

Amorgos Greece

“I would stroll about in the dazzling starlight, repeating to myself as if it were an incantation: “You are in another part of the world, in another latitude, you are in Greece, in Greece, do you understand?”… I had the strange feeling of being at home, of being in a spot so familiar…”                                                          Henry Miller

A four hour flight on a Ryanair plane is a very long time and I came to the conclusion that the airline has a business plan based on making the journey as unpleasant and uncomfortable as it possibly can.  I slept for a while but woke as the Boeing 737-800 was shaken by turbulence whilst flying over storms in the Balkans.  We flew through clouds like towering cathedrals before settling down again as we passed over the Greek city of Thessaloniki and across the coast at Halkidiki with its bony arthritic fingers clawing out into the sea as though trying to save itself.

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