“Gozo remained an utterly private place and lucky the man who could find the key, turn the lock and vanish inside.” – Nicholas Monserrat
We had debated what to do today and we finally decided that we would visit the neighbouring island of Gozo.
Just to be clear, this is the island of Gozo and not Gozer the Gozerain from the film ‘Ghostbusters‘
This is Gozer…
This is Gozo…
Getting there should have been straight forward but this morning we had our first experience of the inefficient bus service. There was a stop at the end of the hotel drive and we arrived there at about nine forty-five which should have given us plenty of time to reach the ferry port about two and a half miles away for the eleven o’clock crossing.
We saw the first bus approach and we saw the first bus pass by without stopping – it was full. A second bus came and passed without stopping and then a third, it seemed as though everyone was going to Gozo this morning.
By this time it was almost ten o’clock and Kim made the decision that we should walk. I said that we wouldn’t make it in time, Kim said that she was confident that we would, I said we wouldn’t, she said we would and so we set off at a brisk pace.
Well, just in time, we made it and that took care of all of the breakfast calories and eventually we calmed down, cooled down and enjoyed a thirty minute ferry journey to our destination, passing as we went the third of the Maltese islands, Comino.
For our day on Gozo we had booked one of those open topped tourist buses. I don’t usually like these because they seem to spend a lot of wasted time going to places that you don’t want to go but the man at the hotel reception had persuaded me that this was a good option because we could be sure of seeing all of the places of interest in one day which could not be guaranteed if relying on the privatised bus service. We found the bus, made our way to the top deck and waited for it to fill up with passengers and leave.
The first really noticeable thing about Gozo was how less busy the place was compared to Malta and we drove through villages and open fields on practically empty roads. First we came to the village of Xewkija which was a modest place but has an enormous church with what is claimed to be the third largest unsupported church dome in the World.
To put that into some sort of perspective the largest is St Peter’s in Rome (fourth largest city in Western Europe) and the second largest is St Paul’s in London (population 7.5 million, give or take a thousand) Xewkija is a village in Gozo with a population of about three thousand, three hundred people.
Our plan was to stay on board the bus and complete the route to the very far side of the island at a place called Dwejra where there is a natural rock formation called the azure window which attracts people like bees to a honey pot mostly it seems on account of the fact that it was used as a location for the TV show ‘Game of Thrones’ although I cannot confirm this because I have never watched it.
It was an interesting little stop and we clambered over the erosion scarred limestone rocks, rock pools where nothing lived and the salt pans which was the reason why. It was very busy so we made our way back to the shabby little ring of tourist trap shops and bars, had a beer and then on account of the number of people who might be competing to get on the bus made our way in good time back to the stop ready to move on to Victoria.
Victoria is the capital of Gozo. It used to be called Rabat but in 1887 the British renamed it to commemorate the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria. I can’t help thinking that it is rather arrogant to go around changing place names in such a superior way. A lot of people on Gozo still call the place Rabat – Good For Them!
The bus dropped us off and we made our way to the centre of the city, to St George’s Square and the Basilica of the same Saint. As it was 23rd April there was a lot of bell ringing and celebration but the disappointment was that the square resembled a construction site as it was in the process of restoration and improvement.
We tend to think of St George as an English Saint but a lot of the rest of Europe has claimed him as well because St. George is also the Patron Saint of Aragon, Catalonia, Ethiopia, Georgia, Greece, Palestine, Portugal, and Russia and I wouldn’t mind betting that all of them will do an awful lot more to celebrate 23rdApril every year than we do!
We moved on from St George’s building site and made our way to the Citadel at the very top of the city which as the name suggests is a medieval fortress city in the most defensible position on the island. This also turned out to be rather a disappointment because this was another construction site. The Citadella is on the UNESCO World Heritage tentative list and it looks as though the Gozians are putting in a bit of extra effort (courtesy of EU heritage funding) to give the application a boost.
The time was passing quickly now and there was still more of the island to see so we returned to the bus station, stopping briefly to buy a Maltese cheese pie for lunch (very tasty by-the-way) before rejoining the tour bus for the remainder of the trip.
First we went to the fishing village of Xlendi where due to the fact that I was confused by the schedule we forgot to get off and so we stayed on and went back to Victoria and then to the other side of the island to the holiday village of Marsalforn where we stopped for forty-five minutes and walked around the sandy beach and the pretty harbour.
Rejoining the bus we went next to the UNESCO site megalithic temples at Nadur and the directly back to the port to catch the six o’clock ferry back to Malta. Twenty years ago the ferry used to arrive and drop passengers off directly on the quay side but now there is a posh (EU funded) ferry terminal with ticket desks, lounges and rules and regulations. I preferred it the old way.
I take your point about renaming things, but it has given me hours of amusement with Derry, Londonderry, Derry-Londonderry was it? Or vice versa.
My favourite name for Derry/Londonderry is stroke city!
I’m glad you cleared that up on Gozer. I was confused.
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Renaming goes on all around. The guy with the biggest wallet gets to change the name of a public building here with his own. I bet Queen Victoria didn’t spend a dime. 🙂
Nice views. Pretty place.
Yikes definitely don’t want to get Gozer and Gozo mixed up!
Absolutely, one is a nice place in the World and the other is the End of the World!
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Wow, the size of that church, Andrew! Amazing for a small place. I can only wonder how they managed it. As for Gozer, nice eyes. –Curt
Malta is the most amazing place for churches. Everywhere they are huge but then Malta is the most religious country in Europe. In a survey in 2010 95% of the population said that they were practising Catholics.
A few years ago I visited the Greek island of Sifnos. The capital of the island is Apollonia and from the top I counted twenty-five churches (easy because they all have blue domes) which seems rather a lot for a town that only has a population of about a thousand permanent residents and by my calculation that is one church for every forty people.
I did a blog on the churches of Santorini, Andrew, and, as I recall, many of the churches were personal chapels. The wealthier the family, the larger the chapel. I’ve been is a number large cathedrals and I am always amazed by the number of people, money and dedication required to build them. And I wonder where else the money might have been directed. –Curt
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I think the church can afford it and still have a bit left over. I like the Gothic cathedrals of Europe but I also confess to being impressed by the Mormon Temple in Salt Lake City.
The Mormons can afford it, too, Andrew. I was there a few years back doing genealogical research and got inside to hear a talk by the author, David McCullough. Definitely impressive. –Curt
I’ve seen Gozo on tv programmes and it looks a very interesting place and reasonably unspoilt. If I were local I’d definitely call the capital Rabat too – it’s so arrogant in hindsight renaming all these places! I’ve never watched “Game Of Thrones” either!
It is nice. Quite a contrast with Malta. I always recommend people to visit!
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